How to sew straight: using a tiny presser foot can give remarkable results
I often get a question from my readers – how to sew straight? For someone who never sews, like my husband, this is a funny subject – what can be simpler than sewing straight lines? But everyone who actually TRIED to sew knows things are not quite what they seem. Sewing straight is one of the most important things, a crooked seam will definitely ruin whatever you sew. Fabric does not usually have guides or rulers and it is very easy to either deviate from the straight line.
In this Sew Straight guide I will show you how to easily keep stitching lines straight. I will talk about topstitching mostly because keeping seam allowances equal is a different topic and I have a separate sewing tutorial on it and on using different types of seam guides – check it out here.
An unrelated subject nevertheless equally important: you need to start sewing with a straight piece of fabric always. Fabric stores do not cut the material straight usually and a very important first task before you cut the pattern is always to straighten the fabric. My article on “how to cut fabric straight” might be interesting here.
What is a top stitch?
It’s a row of stitches that appear on the right side of an item usually after seams are sewn and can be functional or decorative.
Have you ever had problems with crooked stitching lines? I bet you had. Even intermediate sewists are struggling sometimes to do it and had to rip and redo stitching. The example below is very clear:
If you prefer to watch the tutorial GO TO MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL TO SEE THE VIDEO
It’s nice to look at the work of a professional seamstress – all the stitching lines are straight, the seams look perfect. And you always have this feeling that it’s so easy to replicate! But as soon as you start sewing you see that it’s harder than you thought before and it’s unlikely that you will sew straight from the beginning.
To me, it’s often enough to look at the topstitching and immediately determine who made the item – an amateur or a pro. I like to wear clothes I made myself but I will never ever wear something if the stitching lines are not straight and done carelessly.
When I learned sewing I used to always worry about making topstitching for my project I worked hard to create. Sometimes I even avoided any topstiting because I was afraid I wouldn’t make it right. I was told that I need more experience and practice and then I can always do it properly. But I wanted to have beautiful stitching lines from the beginning. And I think you are the same – you want to sew straight even if you are just a beginner.
Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself.
Modern technology gives us so many different tools we can use to improve our sewing skills and sewing straight is one in which tools help. It is also very likely you already have the tools, if not they are quite cheap and readily available.
Sewing in a straight line is much simpler than you think. And in this guide I want to help you to sew straight every time.
First of all, let me show you how to make straight topstitching close to the fabric edges and keep the stitching line parallel to the edge. Remember, the edge tself must be straight.
Of course, we can use a sewing machine throat plate but for me it works mostly when I am stitching not so close to the edge and mostly for sewing seams not topstitching.
I use special presser feet for straight topstitching with ease.
First foot is called Edge Guide foot (from Janome). My sewing machine is Janome Memory Craft 6600 P, so I tend to use presser feet made by Janome. But this foot works with all low-shank modern machines. I have a Babylock sewing machine and the foot works perfectly also.
The foot comes sometimes with the machine but can also be bought separately, just click on the image below.
It has a screw which you can turn to adjust a white plastic guide and align it with the fabric edge. It also has small red lines – the distance between them is exactly 1 mm so you can sew as close to the edge as 1 mm, and as far from the edge as 10 mm.
This foot is a snap-on foot as practically all modern presser feet are. Remove the other foot from the sewing machine and install this one – it’s really easy. Just clip it on.
Position the needle at the distance you want the stitch to be from the fabric edge, and lower the needle. I want it to be just 1 mm from the edge.
Lower the foot and turn the adjusting screw to carefully align the plastic guide with the fabric edge.
While sewing keep guiding the fabric edge along the guide – this is really easy to do!
There are some simple rules you need to remember here:
- Don’t look at the needle, focus on the white guide bar
- Hold the fabric lightly – don’t pull or push
- Don’t sew very fast also
It works well even when the distance between the seam line and the edge of the fabric is very small. See for yourself now – I easily created the perfect topstitching line 1 mm from the fabric edge. It’s nice and even.
You can topstitch all types of cuffs, collars, belts, hems. The foot can be used with all kinds of fabric – from heavyweight denim to fine lightweight chiffon. In the video clip below you can see how I make straight stitching lines with different fabrics.
Even if I try to stitch badly the foot will not let me – every time the stitching lines are perfectly straight.
If you would like to buy this Edge Guide presser foot check out this link.
And now let’s see how we can topstitch along a seam made when we join 2 pieces of fabric together.
Line up the white guide bar with the seam. Stitch at the close distance – 1 mm for example. And after that you can do the second line very easily.
There are also other presser feet that can be used for the same purpose. They look a little bit different from the foot I have but it seems they work the same. And sometimes they even called differently (like Blind Stitch foot)
I have another presser foot that’s called Blind Stitch foot, but I use it for straight even topstitching also.
The fabric guide is metal in this case but there is also a screw and you can move the metal guide with this screw and align it with the fabric edge. How to use this one? It’s exactly the same as with the previous one.
Install it first. Lower the needle at the starting point. I want it to be 1 mm from the edge. Now align the guide with the fabric edge by turning the screw. Lower the foot and sew keeping the fabric edge along the guide.
Amazon.com
Amazon.com
I got a comment on my pin for sewing straight (from Pinterest) – one lady found an easier solution to the problem: “Don’t drink and sew”. While it certainly can help to sew straight it’s all just preference. I personally don’t like to have a drink while sewing but as long as you’re having fun and not crashing your sewing machine who cares.
In the images below you can see how I use this foot for my 100% silk fabric, I stitch very very close to the edge. I made a blouse and a skirt in vintage style from this natural silk fabric and straight topstitching had to be perfect because you can’t rip stitches on silk fabric – you will have holes from needles. I used these magic presser foot and all topstitching was good.
I also have sewing tutorials about other interesting presser feet I use almost daily. Check them out below.
Did you find this tutorial helpful? If so, save this pin (see below) on your sewing board so you can come to this tutorial later when you are ready to learn sewing straight and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration!
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Thoroughly enjoy this website!
Thank you for your kind words!
Great tutorial! I can’t sew straight no matter how much I try; I will follow your instructions. ?
It was very good ? love ❤️ it
This website is most helpful. I have a new sewing machine and need to learn about the various presser feet that came with it and also which ones I should purchase. Thanks for your website.
Your 1920’s dress looks good!
Thank you! Please don’t hesitate to contact me directly at [email protected] if you have questions, it would be my pleasure to answer if I can.
I took your advice about a year ago and bought a presser foot kit. Best investment I made, and with all of your tutorials I can always figure out how to use them.
Thank you very much for your sweet note, Joe! Sewing is so much easier and more fun with all these presser feet.
Thank you can you use this edge guild foot on fleece fabric.
Yes, the foot can be used with almost any fabric including fleece but it’s not good to use it with 4 layers of fleece, for example – it will be too thick. In this case, use other seam guides – I have another tutorial on sewing straight – “Seam guide tutorial – all you need to know about how to sew a straight line and keep seam allowances equal“.
Viking Husqvarna is not listed will it fit Tooaz 50?
I am not sure what foot exactly you are referring to. All feet mentioned fit my low shank sewing machines (Janome and Babylock) but this is of course not a guarantee that they fit all. I don’t have experience with the Husqvarna machines and I could not even find out if they accept interchangeable feet from other brands. But I think they will fit. I have the following alternatives for you: if the foot in question is sold by a dedicated sewing site (like sewingmachinesplus.com), ask them. They sell both the foot and the Topaz line so I presume they have knowledge. If not, all sites I am referring have a solid return policy, at most, you will be asked to pay for shipping back (Amazon even offers free drop off at Kohls stores for returns). So you can try and if it doesn’t work, return it. You can also try to ask the manufacturer, or a dealer if any is within reach for your location.
i have a brother a150
Where would I find the “Presser Foot Kit” as I would like to purchase it. Thank you so much for your tutorials and your amazing knowledge! 🙂
In my article “How to use a cording foot” https://www.ageberry.com/cording-foot-sewing-tutorial/ I have a link to a foot set kit on Amazon which is very well rated. Here is another one (affiliate link) https://amzn.to/3cDTrwC. I am not sure if they are available in Canada though. If you need three or more feet from the set, you are probably better off buying the set. If you need only one, then buying it alone would probably be a better deal.
I have always had a problem sewing straight, avoided top stitching at all times.
I would like to buy the first edge guide pressure foot, are you able to tell me if it would fit my Bernina Sport. It’s an older machine but still sews really well, or advise me who could let me know if this pressure foot would fit.
Many thanks. (New Zealand)
I have never seen this Bernina, so what I did I looked at a manual online for the model 801 Sport. The feet presented in that manual seem to be proprietary so regular low shank feet will probably not fit your machine if it is like the 801 Sport I have seen. It is nevertheless possible that Bernina might have an equivalent foot, ask your local dealer or perhaps the manufacturer. If you like the machine and it works well, I see no reason why not keep it, but it is also possible that the manufacturer no longer supports it if it is too old and not compatible with newer models.
On the other hand, if you are serious about sewing, you will probably end up with more than one machine so buying a newer one is also an option.
I am a beginner quilter and sewing Has always been difficult for me. I think it’s because I didn’t realize the different foots and what they do. Thank you for helping me to understand how the different feet work. I think it’s going to make cool thing a bit easier.
We learn continuously; there are literally dozens, if not over 100 feet, and probably each and every one was created with a specific need in mind. And sewing straight is not a problem for beginners; it is a problem for everyone, no matter how advanced, for long seams.
You are adorable, thank you for this video.
Thank you! My husband specifically asked me to tank you and say that he agrees.
Thank you so much for these tutorials. I learned so much from them. I am just so happy to come across you. Thanks again
I am of course equally happy that my articles are useful! Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your sewing knowledge. This one little tool will make a huge difference! Now I need to watch ALL your other videos to see what else I’m missing. Thank you again
Thank you. Let me know please if you have observations, suggestions or simply you think something should be improved.