Sewing made simple: DIY panties tutorial (plus how to sew knit fabric and how to attach elastic)
In this sewing tutorial I will show you how to sew underwear/panties. This sewing project is quite easy and fast but there can be some small difficulties where you can get stuck (for example, while attaching elastic). You are going to learn some techniques on how to sew with knit fabric, how to make a pattern from ready-made clothes, how to sew elastic, etc.
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I have never tried sewing underwear before but recently I made a few panties for my daughter and would like to show you how to do it. I guess you are wondering – why should I bother making panties if I can easily buy them? Well, the answer is SIMPLE: I made underwear from 100% SILK fabric and from ORGANIC cotton. And I advise you to do the same.
For this we’ll need
Knit fabric – use 100% silk jersey or organic cotton (if you can’t find 100% silk jersey)The underwear MUST be comfortable for the skin. Not many fabric stores sell 100% silk jersey. I found it online in this store moodfabric.com. It’s a bit pricey but the fabric is gorgeous and feels super soft next to the skin.
Elastic trims – use picot edge elastic or stretchy narrow lace (for the leg openings) and wide elastic for the waistband.
What is Picot elastic?
Picot edge elastic is very soft and thin elastic specially made for underwear. It’s usually 4-7 mm wide and comfortable for the skin. It has one decorative picot edge (that’s going to be visible on the right side of the garment) and one straight edge (for easy stitching).
How do you measure the elastic you need for the project?
I just check the length against my body: I wrap the elastic around my hips (or waist) and my leg (exactly around areas of the body where it will go) and try to see at what length I would be more comfortable so the panties stay put but don’t make indentation in my skin.
Some types of elastic are quite hard and you will need to stretch it less but the picot edge elastic for underwear is soft and thin so I tend to stretch it more.
But be careful and don’t overstretch it also – the rule of thumb is to cut the elastic so it’s only 1 or 2 inches shorter than your not stretch measurements. If you make it tighter you may end up with very uncomfortable panties. But also add some seam allowances to the elastic (about 1cm or 3/8” on each side).
Jersey or ball point sewing machine needles (for knits)
Threads of matching colors – I used ELOFLEX thread (you can find my review of this type of thread here)
Old panties (that you liked to wear and can cut for making a pattern)
Buy everything you need for the project here
Telio Organic Cotton Melange Jersey Fabric, Oatmeal, Fabric By The Yard
- Show Mother Earth some love with this 100% GOTS certified organic cotton knit fabric! It is made from cotton that was not farmed the conventional way. No pesticides were used to produce the crops which means the end product is cotton fabric that is totally toxin free. This fabric has a beautiful drape and the extreme softness of this fabric makes it feel heavenly against the skin! It has 30% stretch across the grain which means it moves when you move so it is ultra. . .
- 100% Organic Cotton
- 61'' wide. Fabric is sold by the yard and cut to order. For example, order of 1 yard (Qty=1) is 61'' x 36''. Order of 3 yards (Qty=3) is 61'' x 108''.
- Washing Instructions: Wash 30 degrees/Do Not Bleach/Iron Low
- fabric type: Jersey Knit
TELIO Organic Cotton Jersey Knit Grey Fabric by The Yard
$9.89 in stock
- Fabric Type: 100% Organic Cotton
- Import Designation: Made in the USA or Imported
- Fabric care instructions: Machine Wash Cold/Tumble Dry Low
- 62'' wide. Fabric is sold by the yard and cut to order. For example, order of 1 yard (Qty=1) is 62'' x 36''. Order of 3 yards (Qty=3) is 62'' x 108''.
12 Yards of MAE Plush Picot Lingerie Elastic, White, Made in Italy
- 3/8" (9mm) wide
- 70% Nylon 6; 30% Nylon-covered Elastane
- Orders of more than one quantity will be cut as continuous yardage
- Made in Italy
- Imported exclusively by Bias Bespoke Supply Co.
LOT 20 Yards Random Grab Bag Picot Edged Lingerie Sewing Elastic 1/2 3/8
|EAN List||EAN List Element: 0804044834993|
|Product Group||Art and Craft Supply|
|Product Type Name||ART_SUPPLIES|
|Title||LOT 20 Yards Random Grab Bag Picot Edged Lingerie Sewing Elastic 1/2 3/8|
|UPC List||UPC List Element: 804044834993|
Sewing Craft DIY - 10 Yards Purple Grape Picot Doll Edge Lingerie Sewing Stretch Elastic 1/2 Wide - Trims Variety of Colors, Styles and Materials
- Color: purple;
- Trim Type: Elastic;
- Craft: Sewing;
Ball Point Jersey Machine Needles-Size 10/70 5/Pkg
- Ball Point Jersey Machine Needles-Size 10/70 5/Pkg
25 Schmetz Jersey Ball Point Sewing Machine Needles 130/705 H SUK Size 80/12
$16.77 in stock
- Size 80/12 is perfect for lightweight fabrics
Schmetz 1714C Ball Point Jersey Machine Needles, Size 80/12, 5-Pack
- Made especially for sewing on knits; the medium ball point does not damage or break knitted fibers
- Also works with some stretch fabrics
- Made in Germany
30 Pieces BALL POINT JERSEY HOME SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES ASSORTMENT (ORGAN 15X1 SIZE#10,12,14) 10pcs per size
- 30-piece set of BALL POINT machine needles packaged in three envelopes.Ten pieces of each size.
- ORGAN SUK Ball Point (BP) needles are especially made for knits ex: jersey, interlock; the ball point does not damage or break knitted fibers.
- Time-tested Organ brand ensures performance; quality; and economy
- Versatile all-purpose size 70/10, 80/12, and 90/14 with flat back shank.
- For machines by: Bernina, Brother, Elna, Husqvarna, Janome, Juki, Melco, Necchi, Baby Lock, New Home, Pfaff, Poem, Riccar, Simplicity, Singer, Viking, White & more.
SINGER 04809 Titanium Universal Ball Point Machine Needles for Knit Fabric, Assorted Sizes, 5-Count
$5.99 in stock
- Each package contains 5 individual Ball Point Titanium-coated Needles that can be used for all weights of knit fabrics
- Needle sizes include: 2 Titanium Machine Needles in size 80/11, 2 Titanium Machine Needle in size 90/14 and 1 Titanium Machine Needle in size 100/16.
- Singer Ball Point titanium coated machine needles are super strong; 4 times longer lasting than regular sewing machine needles
- Titanium-coated needles help to minimize thread breakage by reflecting heat away from thread, even at high speeds
- Knit Fabric Titanium Machine Needles are universally designed to fit most sewing machine brands, including Singer, Brother, Kenmore and other quality sewing machines
Eloflex Stretch Thread 225yd-black
- Sewing & Quilting
- Black -Thread Eloflex
Coats Eloflex Stretch Thread 225yd-natural
- Sewing & Quilting
- Natural -Thread Eloflex
How to make an underwear pattern
Cut your old panties: first cut away the elastic trims, then cut the side seams.
Fold this piece in half lengthwise – very important! Left and right parts must be identical when you are making a pattern.
Draw a line on a piece of paper – this will be the grain line and the centerline of the pattern.
Place the folded piece on the paper with the fold along the line.
As you can see the old panties were pretty much out of shape and it wasn’t easy to place them properly. But I managed.
Now draw the pattern. I decided to use ⅜ in (1 cm) seam allowances. And I wanted the panties to be a little higher so I added an inch at the top (in the front and back). Mirror the pattern so that you have the whole pieces (not just halfs) and just cut in a single layer.
When working with knits I prefer not to cut fabric on fold – it’s easier.
There are different ways to sew a crotch/gusset ( a piece of fabric for the crotch and the crotch lining to strengthen this part of the panties). I decided that I would like to make it as a separate pattern piece.
So, I have now 3 pattern pieces for the panties: back, front and a gusset/crotch.
Prewash your fabric
It was the first time I used 100% silk jersey (for lingerie) so I thought I MUST prewash the silk fabric. I put the silk and organic cotton in the washer (in hot water) and left it there for a few minutes (I didn’t make any washing circle though, just a few minutes in hot water and then – one rinse). I didn’t notice any shrinkage of the fabric though.
How to lay out a pattern on knit fabric
Before placing the pattern pieces you have to find a grainline.
But here is the question – how to find a grainline on knit fabric? It’s a little bit tricky but you have to do it right. Otherwise the seams can get twisted.
But before finding the grainline you have to know how to tell the right side of knit fabric because the grainline will be visible (well, barely visible) only on the right side for most knits (there are exceptions, of course). Usually on the right side you can see tiny little lines (called sometimes “ribs”) that go parallel to the selvage. You can see it in the images below.
So, lay down the fabric, make sure there is no distortion and each “rib” is in a straight line.
Find out where you want to place the center line on the fabric, and trace down one of the “ribs” (I use my disappearing ink marker, but you can do it with pins or even basting thread).
After you found the grainline place the pattern pieces on the fabric and cut: 1 front piece, 1 back piece and 2 gusset/crotch pieces.
For the silk fabric use only very thin special pins that don’t make holes in delicate silk.
Stitching pieces together
There are only 4 seams to be made and it can be done in 5 minutes, really. But ONLY with the right tools.
I prefer to use 2 needles 4 thread serger stitches. Test on scrap before stitching the panties. Serger sews the pieces and finishes raw edges at the same time and we always have a nice clean finish.
It can certainly be done with a regular sewing machine but you MUST use special types of stitches for KNITS so the fabric keeps its stretchiness and thread doesn’t “pop” when the fabric is stretched. Use a special zigzag stitch – you can see it in the image below.
But if you use the regular sewing machine you will have to leave the raw edges on side seams unfinished.
Also, your sewing machine can “eat” the fabric (especially the thin silk jersey) – you can see it disappearing under the throat plate. There are many reasons for this happening but I would advise you to check 6:
- Did you use a special jersey/ball point needle?
- Is your stitch length too small for the knit fabric?
- Did you change the foot pressure for thin fabric?
- Did you thread the machine correctly?
- Did you clean the bobbin case?
- Did you hold onto the thread tails when you began stitching?
Place the back piece right side up on flat surface and then place it between two gusset/crotch pieces. The right side of the back piece goes to the right side of one crotch piece, and the right side of another crotch piece goes to the wrong side of the back piece. Pin all 3 layers together and stitch.
Now let’s connect the crotch pieces with the front.
Roll the back piece between the two crotch pieces and place the front piece between the two crotch pieces and stitch. See how it’s done in the video below.
Turn the gusset/crotch inside out – you will see that crotch seams are hidden inside. Press these seams to smooth them out.
After all pieces are stitched together I prefer to finish raw fabric edges with 1 needle 3 thread overlock stitch ( on my serger). This will also stitch together the sides of the crotch pieces and trim the fabric that stuck out from the seams.
But this is completely optional. I made 3 pairs of panties from silk (for my daughter) and only did it for two of them, so in the images below you may see it not finished.
How to sew elastic in underwear
Sewing elastic is not difficult or long. But again, there are different ways to do it and some points to consider.
Overlap the ends of elastic and make a very close zigzag stitch to connect both edges. Trim the seam allowances close to stitching.
Divide the elastic into 4 equal sections and make 4 equally spaced marks on the elastic (with pins or a fabric marker) – center front, center back, and 2 sides.
Make 4 equally spaced marks on the panties the same way and mark them with pins or a fabric marker.
First, I prefer to attach the elastic to the leg openings.
Starting somewhere on the back (a little above the crotch), place the join of elastic to the edge of fabric right sides together. Align the edge of the elastic with the edge of the fabric. Pin elastic to the fabric first in 4 marked points. And after that pin 4 more times between those 4 points.
After that you can stitch the elastic to the fabric using the regular sewing machine – with special stretch zigzag stitch. Try to make the stitch closer to the picot edge but don’t sew on the picot edge at all. Stretch the elastic slightly while sewing, but try NOT to stretch the fabric under it. It’s better to sew slowly.
In the image below you can see how it looks like on the wrong side of the panties. It doesn’t really look pretty yet, right? I made 3 pairs from this silk jersey fabric and I didn’t manage to make this seam nicer. But you know what? IT DOESN’T MATTER MUCH. This seam will be completely hidden (not visible at all). So don’t worry if it’s like this.
And below is a small video on attaching Picot edge elastic.
Fold attached elastic toward the wrong side and make another zigzag stitch on the right side of the panties using 3 STEP ZIGZAG stitch with width 5 and length 1 – 1.5. On my Janome 6600P sewing machine this is number 9 stitch.
While stitching stretch the fabric slightly. When stitching I try not to look at the needle – I look at the marks on the presser foot to make nice stitches. These stitches will be visible on the right side of the panties, so try to keep them as neat as possible.
Repeat this for another leg opening.
You can use the same elastic for the waistband – so just repeat the same method for the waistband.
Or you can use different elastic (like I used this wide lace elastic).
I just attached this wide elastic lace with 3-step zigzag stitch.
If you are interested in my other projects with elastic check out these tutorials:
Did you find this tutorial helpful? If so, save this pin (see below) on your sewing board so you can come to this tutorial later when you are ready to sew your own underwear and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration!
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