Learning how to hem on a coverstitch machine takes practice, but it’s a valuable skill for creating professional-looking garments. This tutorial will walk you through the process step-by-step, from marking your fabric to finishing your hem. I’ll share coverstitch techniques, tips, and secrets that will help you master this versatile machine. Whether you’re working on your first coverstitch project or looking to improve your skills, you’ll learn how to achieve clean, stretchy hems on various knit fabrics.
Understanding the Coverstitch Techniques
Before we get into the hemming process, let’s talk about why the coverstitch is so useful for knit fabrics.
The coverstitch forms two or three parallel lines of straight stitching on the right side of the fabric, with a looper stitch on the underside. This structure allows the stitch to stretch with the fabric, which prevents seams from popping or threads from breaking when the garment is worn.
When hemming, the coverstitch encloses the raw edge of the fabric within the looper stitches on the underside. This creates a clean finish and stops the edge from fraying or rolling – both common issues with knit fabrics.
The coverstitch provides a professional look to handmade garments. It’s the same stitch you’ll see on hems of most store-bought t-shirts, leggings, and other knit items. The parallel lines of stitching on the right side look neat, while the stretchiness of the stitch ensures comfort and durability.
A coverstitch machine usually offers several options for knit hems. You can adjust the width between the needles for different effects, use decorative threads, or add clear elastic for extra stability where needed.
In my experience, the coverstitch has improved my knit sewing significantly. It helps me create garments that look professional and last longer. That’s why I want to share my method for achieving good coverstitch hems with you.
Measuring and Marking the Hem
Accurate marking is crucial when hemming with a coverstitch machine. Start by deciding your hem depth (or is it width?).
As a longtime coverstitch user, I can’t stress enough how important it is to mark the hem line on the right side of the fabric. This step is important because when using a coverstitch machine, you’re stitching from the right side and need to know exactly where to place your stitches to catch the folded edge underneath. If you don’t mark properly, you risk missing the folded edge, resulting in an uneven or incomplete hem.
I’ve tried various methods over the years, but I’ve found the simplest (and fastest) approach works best for me. Here’s my process.
- I start on the wrong side of the fabric. For example, if I want a 2 cm (about 3/4 inch) hem, I mark twice this distance – 4 cm (1.5 inches) – from the raw edge. My go-to tool is a disappearing ink pen.
Use a ruler to measure from the raw edge and mark this line on the wrong side of the fabric. For precise measurements, you can use a clear ruler or hem gauge. Mark at regular intervals around the garment, then you can connect these marks to create a continuous line. This method ensures consistent hem depth.
Curved hems require extra attention. Mark more frequently around curves to maintain an even hem depth.
When working with dark or textured fabrics where this marking pen might not be visible, try alternative marking methods (for example, chalk).
✅ Related tutorial: Hemming 101: A Guide To Different Types Of Hems
- I then fold the fabric to this marked line and pin the hem in place.
- Next, I flip the fabric to the right side. Often, I can see the marks I made on the wrong side (with my disappearing ink pen) through the fabric. If that’s the case, I simply trace over these marks on the right side for better visibility.
4. If the marks aren’t visible through the fabric, I measure again but now from the folded edge, marking the hem width (in this case, 2 cm or 3/4 inch) on the right side.
This last line is crucial – it’s where your first needle should stitch. It ensures you’re catching the folded edge underneath for a clean, professional finish.
Some sewists use other methods for marking, but I find this straightforward method reliable and efficient. It works well for most fabrics and allows for easy adjustments if needed.
Accurate marking is the foundation of a successful coverstitch hem. Take your time with this step – it’ll save you frustration and unpicking later!
Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself.
A Note on Disappearing Ink Pens
When it comes to marking fabric, not all disappearing ink pens are created equal. I learned this the hard way after ruining a skirt with marks that wouldn’t come out. It’s a frustrating and potentially costly mistake that I don’t want you to repeat.
After trying various options, I now exclusively use the Dritz Dual Purpose Disappearing Ink & Mark-B-Gone Marking Pen, Blue and Purple. This pen has proven reliable for me, with marks that consistently disappear as promised without leaving residue.
Dritz Dual Purpose Disappearing Ink
The dual-tip design is useful. The purple ink disappears on its own over time, while the blue ink can be removed with water. This comes in handy for different project needs.
However, even with a reliable pen, it’s always wise to test on a scrap of your fabric first. Factors like fabric type, dye, and finishing treatments can affect how the ink behaves. A quick test can save you from potential headaches later.
By sticking with a trusted marking tool, you can focus on perfecting your coverstitch technique without worrying about permanent marks on your finished garment.
✅ Related tutorial: Your Guide For Choosing The Best Quilt Marking Pens For Every Project
Basting the Hem
After marking, I always baste my hems before coverstitching, and I do this by hand. While some sewists use wonder tape, stay tape, or machine basting, I prefer hand basting for several reasons.
- Hand basting allows for the most precise control, especially with slippery or very stretchy knits.
- It’s easier to avoid stretching the fabric when basting by hand.
- Hand basting stitches are easy to remove.
- There’s no risk of the sewing machine stretching or distorting the knit fabric.
For hand basting knit hems, I use a long running stitch, working about 3/8 inch (1cm) from the raw edge. This keeps the hem in place without interfering with the final coverstitching.
I’m always careful not to pull the thread too tight, which could cause puckering. The goal is to hold the fabric in place, not to gather it.
✅ Related tutorial: Basting Stitch: Why, When And How To Baste In Sewing
After coverstitching, removing the hand basting is very simple.
It’s a step I never skip, as it ensures my coverstitch hems look good.
Setting Up Your Coverstitch Machine
Before we get into how to hem knit fabric using a coverstitch machine, I want to tell you a bit about the machines I’ve used. This stuff really helps with the tips I’m going to share.
I started out with a Janome Cover Pro 900CPX. I had it for years and learned a lot on it. It is a good coverstitch machine. But a few years ago I got a Baby Lock Triumph. This thing is both a serger and a coverstitch machine.
What I really like about the Triumph is how easy it is to switch between serger and coverstitch. You don’t have to mess around with anything complicated. It’s great when you need both types of stitching in one project. Plus, it can do all sorts of different stitches, which comes in handy for different fabrics.
Using these machines over the years has taught me a lot of tricks for getting good results. I’m going to share these with you in this tutorial. Don’t worry if you have a different machine – these tips should work for most coverstitch machines out there.
Choosing the Right Needles and Thread
Needles
You need to use the correct needles. Coverstitch machines typically require special needles, often referred to as ELx705 needles. I think they are slightly shorter than regular sewing machine needles and have a special scarf designed for coverstitch machines.
Schmetz ELX705 Needles – Size 80/12
I usually keep a variety of sizes on hand:
- 75/11 for lightweight knits
- 80/12 for medium-weight knits
- 90/14 for heavier knits or when sewing through multiple layers
Remember to change your needles regularly, as dull needles can lead to skipped stitches or fabric damage.
✅ Related tutorial: Sewing Machine Needle Sizes Explained
Thread
For most of my coverstitch projects, I use regular polyester serger thread. It’s strong yet fine, which helps create a neat finish. I typically use three cones of thread – two for the needles and one for the looper. This is the serger thread I prefer.
New brothread 4 Large Cones of 5500Y (5000M) Each All Purpose Spun Polyester Thread
When working with very stretchy fabrics like swimwear or activewear, I often use wooly nylon thread (mostly in the looper but sometimes in the needles too). This thread is highly elastic and helps the seam retain its stretchiness.
✅ Related tutorial: Wooly Nylon Thread | What It Is And How To Use
Color matching is also important for a professional look. I try to match the needle threads to my fabric color, while the looper thread can be a close match or a contrasting color for decorative effect.
Quality matters when it comes to thread. Cheap thread can break easily or produce lint that clogs your machine. I’ve found it’s worth investing in good-quality thread for smoother sewing and better-looking results.
Adjusting Machine Settings
Stitch Length for Various Knit Types
I’ve found that stitch length can make a big difference in how your coverstitch hem looks and performs. Here’s what I typically use:
- For lightweight knits: 2.5-3 mm
- For medium-weight knits: 3-3.5 mm
- For heavyweight knits or sweater knits: 3.5-4 mm
These are starting points of course. I always test on a scrap of the actual fabric I’m using and adjust as needed. Longer stitches generally allow for more stretch, which can be beneficial for very elastic fabrics.
Tension Adjustments for a Balanced Stitch
Achieving the right tension is important for a good-looking, functional coverstitch. Tensions can vary based on the fabric, thread, and even environmental factors like humidity. Don’t be afraid to make adjustments.
- I start with all 3 tensions set to the machine’s default (usually around 4).
- I sew a test sample and examine both sides. On the top, the stitches should be straight and even. On the bottom, the looper thread should just catch the edge of the fabric without pulling it too tight.
- If the looper thread is too loose, I increase the looper tension slightly.
- If the fabric is puckering, I decrease the needle tensions.
- If the stitches are loose on top, I increase the needle tensions.
Even though I’ve been using my coverstitch machine for a while now, I don’t use it every day. So, I always keep my machine’s manual close by.
I forget stuff too. Especially when it comes to adjusting the tension for coverstitching.
So, before I start any coverstitch project, I always pull out my manual and double-check the tension settings. It only takes a minute, but it saves me from a lot of frustration later on. Plus, it’s a good reminder of any other little details I might have forgotten since my last coverstitching session.
Your manual is there to help, so use it! It’s better to take a moment to check than to guess and end up with wonky stitches.
I make small adjustments and test again until I’m satisfied. It’s a bit of trial and error, but with practice, you’ll get a feel for it.
My Coverstitch Machine Projects
In this tutorial, I’m not just going to talk about theory – I’ll show you real examples from my own sewing projects. I’ve used my coverstitch machine on three different items to demonstrate the techniques.
#1. A store-bought rayon knit dress that was too long. I shortened it and also made the sleeves short instead of long.
#2. A cotton knit dress that I made myself from scratch.
#3. One of my husband’s t-shirts that needed to be shortened.
You’ll see pictures of these projects throughout the tutorial. This way, you can see how the techniques work on different types of knit fabrics and in real-life situations. I think it’s always helpful to see how things actually look in practice, not just in perfect, staged tests.
By using these real projects, I hope you’ll get a better idea of how to handle common coverstitching tasks you might face with your own clothes. Plus, you’ll see that even if things aren’t always perfect, you can still get great results with a coverstitch machine.
Sewing the Knit Hem
Positioning the Fabric
Lay the fabric flat on your machine bed, right side up. Ensure the fabric is smooth and free from wrinkles.
Carefully line up the left needle mark of your presser foot with the marked line on the right side of the fabric. This line represents where your first needle will stitch, ensuring you catch the folded edge underneath. Double-check that your hem is evenly folded as you begin.
Most coverstitch machines have built-in guide marks on the throat plate and presser foot. Use these as reference points to maintain a consistent distance from the folded fabric edge.
Stitching Techniques
Start sewing slowly, guiding the fabric gently. From time to time, pause with the needles down and raise the presser foot to adjust the fabric if necessary.
Maintain a steady, slow pace as you guide the fabric. Keep your hands light and allow the feed dogs to move the fabric. Avoid pulling or pushing, which can stretch the knit and result in wavy hems. Focus on keeping the marked line aligned with your presser foot mark.
Finishing the Hem
Coverstitches typically can’t backstitch. Instead, when you reach the end of your hem, sew about 1/2 inch past the starting point for overlap.
However, overlapping the stitches precisely can be tricky, and it’s a common problem when coverstitching. The stitches often don’t align perfectly, which can lead to uneven appearance at the join.
I’ve certainly had times where I’ve had to stop, carefully unpick the last few stitches, and try again to get a better match. This is especially challenging on very visible areas of a garment.
One technique I’ve found helpful is to slow down significantly as I approach the overlap point. I sometimes even hand-crank the machine for the last few stitches to ensure more precise placement.
Patience is key when working with a coverstitch machine.
Pressing After Stitching
Pressing helps to set the stitches and smooth out any minor puckering or waviness in the knit fabric
But you have to press your coverstitch hem without damaging or distorting the stitches. Set your iron to the appropriate heat for your fabric type. Too much heat can damage both the fabric and the thread. Use a pressing cloth to protect both the fabric and the stitches. Always press from the wrong side first. Instead of sliding the iron, use a press and lift motion.
Troubleshooting Common Hemming Issues
Causes and solutions for skipped stitches on coverstitch machines
Sometimes you might get skipped stitches when working with a coverstitch machine.
1. Improper Threading
Rethread your machine completely, ensuring the threads are properly seated in all guides and tension discs.
2. Dull or Damaged Needles
Replace your needles regularly, especially after heavy use or sewing through dense fabrics.
3. Incorrect Tension
Adjust your tension settings. Start with the manufacturer’s recommended settings and make small adjustments as needed.
4. Wrong Type of Thread
Use high-quality thread designed for sergers and coverstitch machines, matching the weight to your fabric.
5. Incorrect Needle Size
Use the correct needle size for your fabric weight. Lightweight fabrics typically need smaller needles (75/11 or 80/12), while heavier fabrics require larger needles (90/14).
6. Fabric Issues
Use a stabilizer or spray starch to add stability to the fabric. For very stretchy fabrics, slightly stretching the fabric as you sew can help.
7. Dirty Machine
Clean your machine regularly, especially around the looper area and under the needle plate.
8. Needle Position
Ensure needles are inserted correctly and pushed up as far as they’ll go.
If you’re consistently experiencing skipped stitches, it’s worth taking the time to systematically go through these potential causes. Often, a combination of factors may be at play, so be patient and methodical in your troubleshooting.
Preventing Wavy Hems
Wavy hems can be an issue when coverstitching knit fabrics. Achieving perfect hems often requires practice and may involve some trial and error to find the right combination of techniques for each specific fabric. Here are some tips to help you achieve smooth, professional-looking hems.
1. Use the right presser foot pressure. Adjust the presser foot pressure according to your fabric weight. Lighter fabrics generally need less pressure. Too much pressure can cause the fabric to stretch as it feeds, leading to wavy hems.
2. Ensure your feed dogs are in good condition and clean. Adjust the differential feed if your machine has this feature. For knits, setting it slightly higher (around 1.2-1.5) can help prevent stretching.
3. Guide the fabric gently without pulling or pushing. Let the machine do the work of moving the fabric through.
4. For very lightweight or stretchy fabrics, consider using a tear-away stabilizer under the hem. Spray starch can also help stabilize fabric before hemming.
5. Balanced thread tension is important. Test on scraps and adjust as needed.
6. A longer stitch length can sometimes help reduce waviness, especially on very stretchy fabrics.
7. Try to maintain a steady, moderate sewing speed. Varying speeds can affect stitch formation and fabric feed.
8. After sewing, press your hem carefully. Sometimes, what appears to be waviness can be corrected with proper pressing.
Navigating the Seam Hump When Using a Coverstitch
When coverstitching a hem in the round, such as on a t-shirt or leggings, one of the most challenging aspects is navigating the seam hump where the side seam meets the hem. This area is significantly thicker, which can cause several issues: skipped stitches, broken needles, uneven stitching, fabric jams.
To address these issues, try the following techniques.
1. Manually Assist the Fabric
As you approach the hump, slow down and use your hands to gently lift and guide the fabric through. Be careful not to pull or push too hard, which can cause distortion.
2. Reduce Presser Foot Pressure
If your machine allows, reduce the presser foot pressure slightly when approaching thick areas.
3. Hammer the Seams
Before sewing, use a rubber mallet to flatten the side seam where it meets the hem. Place a scrap of fabric over the seam to protect it, then gently hammer to reduce bulk.
4. Grade the Seams
Trim the seam allowances at different widths to reduce bulk where the side seam meets the hem.
5. Try Nesting the Seams
Before folding your hem, press the seam allowances in opposite directions at the hem area. This technique, often called ‘nesting’ or ‘opposing seam allowances,’ helps distribute the bulk more evenly and creates a flatter surface for your coverstitch machine to sew over. It helps to reduce the overall bulk at the point where the side seam meets the hem.
6. Use a Longer Stitch Length
Temporarily increase the stitch length as you approach and cross the seam hump.
7. Hand-Crank Over the Hump
Use the hand wheel to manually move the needles over the thickest part of the seam.
8. Start Sewing After the Hump
If possible, begin your coverstitching just after the side seam and end just before it, then secure the threads manually.
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