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How to perfectly align checkers, stripes and other lines when inserting an invisible zipper

Usually it is quite easy to insert an invisible zipper. But if we have to align checkers, stripes and other lines of separate pattern pieces (like a contoured band or yoke) it can be a problem. In this tutorial I want to show you how to do it easily.

My logo with number 1

Pin pattern pieces together aligning them in the process.

My logo with number 1

Mark where you want your zipper end.

Most of the time we insert invisible zippers before the seam is stitched together. But in our case we will do differently.

My logo with number 3

So stitch the seam from the mark down, and don’t forget to secure stitches in the beginning. Check pattern alignment. If it is not good, redo the seam.

My logo with number 4

Now stitch together the other part of the garment in place where the zipper should be inserted.

But for this use basting stitches of your sewing machine – put the stitch length at 5mm and tension at 0. In the end you will have to take it out. In this tutorial I even used different color threads. Check alignment. If you pinned pieces properly your alignment should be perfect.

My logo with number 5

Press your stitches open.

my logo with number 6

Now pin the invisible zipper to the seam where we put basting stitches. Make sure the center of the zipper is exactly above the seam line.

My logo with number 7

Change your presser foot. Insert a regular zipper foot, not the one special for invisible zippers.

Move the needle of your sewing machine away from the inside of the zipper foot toward where you want to sew.

Stitch both parts of the zipper with basting stitches. Try to sew as close to the coils as possible. But you don’t need to keep stitches straight. You will have to take them out later.

Stop stitching exactly at the mark you made earlier. Don’t bother to secure stitches. You are just basting the zipper to the seam.

my logo with number 8

This step is a little tricky. You will have to rip first basting stitches so you can open the zipper. The trickiest part is to open zipper fully to the end going beyond the mark.

my logo with numer 9
Now you are ready to sew the zipper in place. Make necessary machine adjustments – proper stitch length, proper tension, etc. If you want you can use the invisible zipper foot, or you can stitch with the regular zipper foot we already used.

my logo with number 10

When you almost reach the mark ( 5 mm from the mark) make a little curve as I show in the image and video below. Close the zipper very carefully, pulling the zipper slider through the opening and up. Your zipper should be perfectly aligned.

my logo with number 11

Take out basting stitches from the zipper. You are almost done!

my logo with number 12

Press the seam flat from the right side of the garment.

my logo with number 13

And in the end you will have to anchor the bottom of the zipper to the seam allowance using just a regular foot of your machine. Make few stitches on each side of the zipper and secure them in place.

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Wednesday 15th of July 2020

Interesting technique!


Tuesday 22nd of August 2017

I'm definitely going to try this method for all invisible zip applications.They are the bane of my life!!

Olga Balasa

Tuesday 22nd of August 2017

Thanks! I was doing this for many years and it worked for me every single time. No ripping and no tears. I hope it will work for you also. I would like to hear from you again when you try this method.

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