How To Sew A Patch Pocket Sewing Tutorial

Today, I want to show you how to sew a simple patch pocket that you can add to almost any garment. This method works well for dresses, shirts, skirts, pants, aprons, bags, or even pajamas.

Pockets are useful additions to our clothes. They give us a place to keep small items like phones, keys, or spare change. Many people prefer clothes with pockets because of their practicality.

In this sewing tutorial, I’ll show you how to make a rounded patch pocket with a smooth, curved edge. This method doesn’t require turning under seam allowances, which makes it easier to sew.

By the end of this guide, you’ll know how to:

1. Cut and prepare pocket pieces
2. Sew a pocket with a neat finish
3. Attach a pocket to a garment

For this tutorial, I’ll be using my Christmas apron project as an example. Specifically, we’ll be attaching patch pockets to a reversible cross-back apron. This project is great for demonstrating patch pocket techniques because aprons are items that benefit greatly from pockets and the flat surface of an apron makes it easy to see and understand the pocket attachment process. 

What You’ll Need

• Fabric for the pocket (same or contrasting fabric as the garment).
• Sewing machine and matching thread.
• Pocket pattern/template.
• Regular sewing tools and notions (scissors, pins, measuring tape, etc.)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step #1. Select and Cut Fabric

• Choose fabric that compliments your garment. It can be the same as your main fabric or a contrasting one for a fun pop of color.
• Trace and cut out 2 pairs of a pocket pattern. If you don’t have a pattern, you can create a simple one by drawing a rounded rectangle shape on paper.
• For each pocket, cut two identical pieces. Remember to add a 1/4″ to 3/8″ seam allowance around all edges if it’s not included in your pattern.
• If you’re using lightweight fabric, consider interfacing your pocket pieces to give them more structure.

Did you notice a pair of fabric scissors I’m using to cut the pockets? These scissors are truly good for any sewing project. They offer a clean, precise cut, making the process so much smoother. If you’re looking for a reliable pair, I highly recommend these fabric scissors. You can find them on Amazon through my affiliate link.

Fabric Scissors Professional 10 inch Heavy Duty

Step #2. Marking the Pocket Placement

Next, you’ll need to decide where to place your pockets

• If you’re following a pattern that includes pockets, transfer the pocket placement markings onto your fabric as indicated.
• If you’re adding pockets to an existing garment or creating your own design:
  • Try on the garment or hold the fabric pieces up to your body.
  • Mark where your hand naturally falls – this is usually a good spot for a pocket.
  • Use tailor’s chalk, a marking pen, or pins to mark this position on your fabric.
• Make sure to mark both sides of your garment if you’re adding two pockets.
• Double-check that your pocket placements are even on both sides by measuring from a fixed point (like the waistband or side seam).

The perfect pocket placement can vary depending on the garment style and personal preference. Don’t be afraid to adjust the position until it feels right for you.

Step #3. Sewing the Pocket Pieces

Align and Pin

Take your two pocket pieces and place them right sides together.

Align the edges carefully, making sure all sides match up perfectly.

Pin around the edges of the pocket, starting at one side of where you want to leave an opening.

Leave an opening of about 2-3 inches on one straight edge for turning the pocket right side out later. Mark this opening with a fabric marker so you remember not to sew it closed.

Sew Around the Edges

• Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of about 2.5mm.
• Begin sewing at one side of your marked opening, using a 1/4 inch or 5/8 inch seam allowance. If you’re new to sewing, you might find it helpful to draw a seam line from the edge as a guide.
• Sew slowly and steadily around the pocket edges, removing pins as you go.
• When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and pivot the fabric to continue along the next edge.
• As you approach the other side of the opening, slow down and stop precisely where you marked.
• Remember to backstitch (sew backwards for a few stitches) at the beginning and end of your stitching to secure the thread.

Clip Curves and Corners

Once you’ve finished sewing, it’s time to clip the curves and corners. This step is necessary for achieving smooth, rounded edges when you turn the pocket right side out.

For curved edges: I’ve found a great solution for this – pinking shears! Instead of making small triangular cuts along the curved edges, simply trim the seam allowance with pinking shears. The zigzag pattern created by the pinking shears allows the fabric to spread evenly when turned, resulting in a smooth curve without the need for individual clips.

This pinking shears method saves time and gives a more consistent finish along curved edges.

If you don’t have a pair of pinking shears yet, I highly recommend investing in some. You can find the exact ones I use on Amazon through my affiliate link.

Fiskars SoftGrip Pinking Shears

For corners: Trim off a tiny triangle of fabric at each corner to reduce bulk. Be careful not to cut into your stitches.

Always trim carefully to avoid cutting into your stitching line.

Step #4. Turning and Pressing

Turn the Pocket Right Side Out

• Gently pull the pocket right side out through the opening you left earlier.
• Use your fingers to push out the corners carefully. For a more precise result, you can use a point turner to push out the corners, ensuring they’re neat and sharp.
• For curved edges, run your finger along the inside of the seam to smooth it out.
• Make sure the pocket is fully turned, with no fabric still tucked inside.

After turning the pocket right side out, you need to smooth the edges before pressing. I use two effective methods for this: basting or pinning. 

You can sew basting stitches around the entire pocket – this helps to create a crisp edge and keeps everything in place for pressing.

✅ Related tutorial: Basting Stitch: Why, When And How To Baste In Sewing

You can also use special heat-resistant pins (often called “magic pins” ) to smooth and shape the pocket edges. These pins can remain in the fabric while you iron the pocket.

✅ Related tutorial: Are These ‘Magic’ and ‘Wonder’ Tools the Secret to Sewing Perfection?

Press the Pocket

• Set your iron to the appropriate heat setting for your fabric.
• Start by pressing the entire pocket flat. This initial pressing helps to set the shape.
• At the opening where you turned the pocket, tuck the raw edges inside to match the rest of the pocket edge. Press this area flat.

Pressing is not the same as ironing. Use up-and-down motions rather than sliding the iron back and forth to avoid distorting your fabric.

In the image above,  I’m using the Sundu Pro Steam Station with Ceramic Soleplate. This 1800W steam station iron has a 1.5L removable water tank, which is a fantastic feature. The large tank means fewer refills, It allows me to iron for longer periods without interruption. The tank is also easy to remove and refill, so the whole process is more convenient.

I have to admit, it took a bit of time to get used to this steam station because it’s different from a traditional iron. But once I got the hang of it, I found it works great and I really enjoy using it. Plus, it’s reasonably priced.

If you’re considering a new iron, I highly recommend this one. 

Sundu Pro Steam Station with Ceramic Soleplate, 1800W Steam Station Iron

Topstitching for a Professional Finish

After pressing, stitch across the top of the pocket to close the opening you left for turning. This can be done with a straight stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you could even do a second row of topstitching (about 1 inch below the first one) for added emphasis, or use a contrasting thread color for a decorative touch.

So now you should have a finished pocket ready to be attached to your garment. 

Step #5. Attaching the Pocket to the Garment

Position the Pocket

• Take your pressed pocket and place it on your garment at the position you marked earlier.
• Double-check that the pocket is straight and aligned properly. You can use a ruler or measuring tape to ensure it’s equidistant from side seams or other reference points.
• If you’re adding pockets to both sides of a garment, take extra care to ensure they’re at the same height and position on both sides.

I’ve learned this lesson the hard way, and I want to share it with you to save you from the same mistake. A few times in my sewing journey, I’ve ended up with pockets that weren’t properly aligned. Let me tell you, it looked really funny – one pocket was riding high while the other was hanging low!

This mishap taught me the importance of double and triple-checking pocket placement before sewing. So pin both pockets in place and try on the garment (if possible) before sewing. This allows you to check the placement visually and make adjustments. It’s much easier to reposition pinned pockets than to unpick sewn ones. 

Pin in Place

• Once you’re satisfied with the position, begin pinning the pocket to the garment.
• Start by placing pins along the sides and bottom of the pocket.
• As you pin, make sure the pocket lies completely flat against the garment. Smooth out any wrinkles or bubbles.
• Use plenty of pins to keep the pocket secure, especially around curves.

Topstitch the Pocket

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch. A slightly longer stitch length (about 2.5-3mm) often works well for topstitching.

Begin at the top of one side of the pocket. Before sewing straight down, I usually sew small triangles at the top corners for reinforcement. 

• Start about 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the top edge.
• Sew diagonally towards the top corner, pivot at the corner, and sew diagonally back down to create a small triangle.
• This triangle adds strength to the pocket opening, which experiences the most stress.

After sewing the triangle, continue sewing down the side of the pocket, staying close to the edge (about 1/8 inch or 3mm). Sew across the bottom and up the other side.

When you reach the top of the other side, sew another small triangle for reinforcement.

Backstitch at the end to secure your stitching.  

✅ Related tutorial: How To Topstitch | 17 Topstitching Tips Every Beginner Should Know

Take your time with this step. Slow, steady stitching will give you the best results. If you’re working with a stretchy fabric, consider using a walking foot to prevent the fabric from stretching as you sew.

Don’t forget to give your newly pocketed garment a final press to make everything look crisp and professional!

Versatility of Patch Pocket Shapes

While I’m demonstrating this technique with a rounded patch pocket in my Christmas apron example, you can use this same method for various pocket shapes.

1. Square Pockets – perfect for a more structured look, often used on shirts or jackets.
2. Rectangular Pockets – great for holding larger items or creating a sleek, modern appearance.

Sage+Stitch Adjustable Designer Kitchen Apron for Adults

3. Rounded Pockets – as shown in this tutorial, these offer a softer look and are popular on aprons and casual wear.

4. Custom Shapes – you can even create unique shapes like hearts, stars, or any design that suits your project.

McCall’s Pattern Company M6860 Aprons

The beauty of this technique is its flexibility. Regardless of the shape you choose, the basic steps remain the same. You can adapt the pocket style to match your garment design or personal preference. 

Patch Pockets Sewing Ideas

What’s great about patch pockets is that you can easily embellish them to match your style or the theme of your project. In my case, I’ve added some festive touches to my apron pockets.

On one side of the apron, I’ve embroidered the words “Messy and bright” on a single pocket.

The other side features two pockets, each embellished with embroidered monograms.

These embellishments not only make the pockets more attractive but also demonstrate how you can use patch pockets as a canvas for your creativity. Whether you’re adding embroidery, appliqué, or other decorative elements, patch pockets offer a great opportunity to showcase your personal style.

There are many creative ways to embellish patch pockets. Here are some popular methods:

1. Embroidery – as I’ve done with my Christmas apron, embroidery is a great way to personalize pockets. You can add words, monograms, or decorative designs.
   
2. Appliqué – attach fabric shapes or motifs to the pocket before sewing it onto the garment.

3. Decorative stitching – use your sewing machine’s fancy stitches to create patterns around the pocket edges or across the pocket.

SEASUM Cargo Yoga Flare Leggings for Women

4. Trims and ribbons – sew lace, rickrack, or other decorative trims along the top or sides of the pocket.

5. Fabric combinations – use contrasting fabrics for the pocket and the garment, or create patchwork pockets from multiple fabric pieces sewn together in a decorative pattern.

6. Buttons and beads – add decorative buttons or beads to the pocket for a textured look.

LA Idol Jack David Jack David U-Cute Rose 2 Rhinestone Studded Medium & Dark Wash Denim Jeans

7. Fabric paint or stamps – use fabric paint to add designs or use stamps to create patterns.

Maison d’ Hermine Colmar 100% Cotton 1 Piece Kitchen Apron

8. Quilting – if you’re comfortable with quilting techniques, you can quilt designs onto the pocket before attaching it.

BAGSMART Tote Bag for Women

9. Ruffles or pleats – add ruffles along the top edge or create pleats in the pocket fabric for a dimensional effect.

If you want to embellish pockets, consider the function of the pocket and ensure your decorations don’t interfere with its use. Also, if you’re adding embellishments that might make the fabric stiffer or thicker, you may need to adjust your sewing technique accordingly.

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I hope you’ve enjoyed this pocket-sewing tutorial and are excited to add some functional flair to your garments. Sewing is a journey, and we’re all learning together. If you have any questions about this tutorial or run into any snags while sewing your pockets, don’t hesitate to ask. I’m here to help, and your questions might benefit other readers too. For more sewing tips, tricks, and tutorials, make sure to subscribe to my newsletter. I post new content regularly, always aiming to help you improve your sewing skills. If you found this tutorial helpful, why not share it with a friend who loves sewing? Sharing knowledge is one of the best ways we can support each other in our crafting adventures.

Liked this tutorial? Don’t forget to save this pin to your sewing Pinterest board for future reference. This way, you can easily return to this guide whenever you’re ready to sew pockets. For more creative sewing tips, tutorials, and daily doses of inspiration, make sure to follow me on Pinterest.

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