DIY Easter Table Runner with Decorative Ribbons and Sequins – Step-by-Step Sewing Tutorial

This tutorial will walk you through making an Easter table runner using decorative ribbons, sequins, and a colorful border. 

The neutral linen-like fabric in the center creates a balanced backdrop. The colorful ribbons and trims stand out against it. The ribbon design adds movement and texture.

The bright Easter egg fabric border frames the runner. The combination of pastel yellow, vibrant green, rich red, metallic silver ribbons, and golden sequins creates variety and contrast.

I love how this table runner brings a handmade touch to Easter décor. Whether placed on a dining table, a sideboard, or a coffee table, it adds warmth and personality. It’s festive, creative, and fun – just like Easter itself!

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. 

What you’ll need

• Main fabric (neutral or solid background)
• Backing fabric (festive Easter print)
• Fusible interfacing (for structure)
• Assorted ribbons and sequin strands (1/4 inch wide)
• Sequin Presser Foot (for easy ribbon attachment)
• Thread (matching or contrasting, depending on design)
• Sewing machine with decorative stitches
• Fabric marker
• Ruler and rotary cutter
• Iron and pressing cloth

Amazon has an excellent selection of ribbons at relatively low prices: current Amazon decorative ribbon offers.

Sequin Presser Foot 7mm

Step 1. Cutting and Preparing the Fabrics

#1. Cut the main fabric to the desired table runner size. A standard size is 14” x 36”, but you can adjust it based on your table dimensions. A neutral or solid-colored fabric works well as the background, so that the decorative ribbons and trims stand out.

Check my article on cutting fabric for more tips on achieving straight, accurate cuts – The Ultimate Fabric Cutting Guide: Tips, Tools & Techniques for Every Project.

#2. Cut fusible interfacing to match the size of the main fabric. Interfacing is necessary because it stabilizes the fabric, keeping it flat and smooth while sewing ribbons and sequins. It prevents the fabric from stretching, puckering, or shifting under the weight of decorative trims. Medium weight fusible interfacing works well for this project, providing structure without making the runner too stiff.

#3. Prepare the backing fabric but don’t cut it yet.  This extra fabric will fold over to create a self-facing border, eliminating the need for separate binding. Choosing an Easter print for the backing will add a bright and colorful contrast to the neutral main fabric.

#4. Press all fabrics to remove wrinkles. 

Step 2. Designing the Ribbon Layout

I started by laying out the main fabric on a flat surface. A large table or cutting mat works best because it gives me enough space to arrange everything without shifting the fabric. At this stage, I make sure the fabric is completely smooth and wrinkle-free. If needed, I press it again to get a nice, flat surface to work on.

Now comes the fun part – arranging the ribbons and trims. For this table runner, I wanted a crisscross design, so I placed the ribbons somewhat diagonally across the fabric. I experimented with different angles, overlapping some ribbons and spacing others apart.

I also mixed regular and metallic trims to create more contrast. The layout process is all about playing with placement until it looks just right.

Once I was happy with the ribbon arrangement, I grabbed my heat-erasable pen to mark guidelines for the presser foot alignment.

Madam Sew Heat Erasable Fabric Marking Pens

There are other marking tools that work well too:

• Air-erasable markers – Great for temporary marks since they fade on their own after a few hours or days.
• Water-soluble fabric markers – The ink disappears with water, which is useful for fabrics that might react to heat.
• Tailor’s chalk – Ideal for darker fabrics, though it can rub off if handled too much.
• Hera marker – Creates a crease instead of using ink, perfect for delicate fabrics.

I prefer heat-erasable pens because the marks disappear instantly when ironed. This makes it easy to adjust lines if needed without worrying about visible markings on the final project, and this is what I used for this project.

Step 3. Sewing the Ribbons and Sequins

Now that the ribbons were arranged and the guidelines were marked, it was time to sew them onto the fabric. To do this, I used the Sequin Presser Foot, which made the process so much easier. With this foot, I didn’t need to baste the ribbons or use glue to hold them in place. The built-in guide kept everything aligned as I sewed, saving time and effort.

Inserting the Ribbon and Aligning the Foot

I inserted the first ribbon into the foot’s central guide and positioned the fabric under the needle. Instead of aligning the ribbon with the guideline I had marked, I made sure that the left edge of the presser foot’s plastic guide followed the guideline. This helped keep the stitching straight and consistent.

Sewing the Ribbons

I chose a zigzag stitch on my sewing machine and started sewing slowly, letting the foot guide the ribbon while I focused on keeping the fabric steady. The foot fed the ribbon smoothly, preventing it from shifting or twisting.

For each new ribbon, I repeated the same process:

1. Inserted the ribbon into the foot’s guide.
2. Positioned the fabric so the presser foot’s guide followed the marked line.
3. Sewed slowly and evenly.
4. Made sure the ribbons overlapped neatly when layering them.

Adding Sequins

For the strand of golden sequins, I switched to a straight stitch and carefully inserted the sequin strand into the foot. To keep the sequins from flipping, I made sure they were laying flat toward the fabric before sewing. I adjusted the stitch length so the needle wouldn’t hit the sequins directly, sewing right down the center of the strand.

Final Pressing

Once all the ribbons and sequins were attached, I pressed the fabric using a pressing cloth. Direct heat on sequins or decorative trims can melt or flatten them, so the pressing cloth protects them while still allowing me to smooth out the fabric.

Step 4. Calculate the Size of the Backing Fabric

Before cutting the backing fabric, I needed to square up the table runner with the sewn ribbons and sequins. Sewing multiple ribbons, especially with decorative stitches, can cause the fabric to shrink slightly. This step ensures that the edges are straight and the final table runner has even sides. 

I used a rotary cutter, a quilting ruler, and a cutting mat to trim away any uneven edges. I checked that the corners were at a 90-degree angle and that the sides were straight. 

Since I used a self-binding method, the backing fabric needed to be larger than the top fabric. This extra fabric would fold over to form the binding, eliminating the need for separate binding strips.

To determine how much extra fabric was needed, I used this formula:

1. Decide on the binding width. I wanted a 2-inch-wide binding around the table runner.
2. Add 5/8 inch for the fabric that will be folded under while sewing. This keeps the raw edges hidden and gives a clean finish.
3. Add 1/8 inch for some wiggle room. This small allowance ensures the backing fabric fully covers the edges when folded over.

Final Calculation:

2 inches (binding) + 5/8 inch (fold-under) + 1/8 inch (wiggle room) = 2 3/4 inches extra on each side to find the final backing fabric size, I took the dimensions of my squared-up table runner and added 2 3/4 inches to each side.

Cutting the Backing Fabric

1. Measure the squared-up table runner and write down its final dimensions.
2. Add 5 1/2 inches (2 3/4 inches per side) to both the width and length.
3. Cut the backing fabric to this new size.

This method ensured the backing fabric was large enough to wrap around the edges, creating a neat self-binding border without extra seams. 

Step 5. Sewing Mitered Corners

To prepare for self-binding, mark the corners of the backing fabric correctly. This method creates very nice mitered corners. 

Measure 2 inches for the binding plus 5/8 inch for the seam allowance, making a total of 2 5/8 inches. Use a fabric marker to draw a square of this size in each corner of the backing fabric.

Next – start with one corner of the backing fabric. Fold the corner diagonally so that the raw edges meet, with the right sides of the fabric facing each other.

Carefully align the edges, ensuring the fold is precise and straight. Any misalignment will affect how neatly the binding folds over later.

Fold the fabric along the marked line (2 5/8 inches), which runs perpendicular to the raw edges. This line was drawn earlier as part of the square marking.

Align the raw edges carefully, as shown in the image below, to ensure the fold is neat and precise. To keep the layers from shifting, pin the folded fabric in place. 

Use a fabric marking tool to trace along the folded edge. This line will serve as the stitching guide for creating the mitered corner. A Frixion pen, air-erasable marker, or chalk works well for this step.

The accuracy of this fold and the marked stitching line is essential. A precise mark ensures the mitered corner will lay flat and fold neatly over the edge of the table runner.

Find a spot on the marked stitching line (the one traced from the folded edge) where the perpendicular distance to the raw edges equals the seam allowance.

In this case, the seam allowance is 5/8 inch. Use a ruler to measure 5/8 inch perpendicular from the raw edges to the marked line.

Mark this exact spot clearly with a fabric marker. This point will guide the stitching for the mitered corner.

The line between points 1 and 2 is the stitching line for the mitered corner. The image below shows the points more clearly.

Use pins to secure the fabric along this line. Pinning prevents the layers from shifting while sewing and ensures a precise seam.

Take the fabric to the sewing machine and stitch along the marked line, from point 1 to point 2.

Once the first corner is stitched, repeat the same process for the remaining corners of the backing fabric. 

After stitching all the corners, use sharp fabric scissors to trim the seam allowance, cutting off the excess fabric from each corner as shown in the image.

Be careful not to cut into the stitching line.

This step reduces bulk, allowing the corners to lay flat and crisp when turned right side out

Flip each stitched and trimmed corner right side out, gently pushing the fabric through.

Use a corner-turning tool to carefully shape the corners into sharp points. Be gentle to avoid stretching or distorting the fabric.

Once all the corners are turned and shaped, the edges will begin to form clean mitered corners, creating a smooth and even binding for the table runner.

After turning all the corners right side out, the next step is folding and pressing the binding. Measure 2 5/8 inches from the edge of the backing on all sides. Fold the backing fabric over towards the front, making sure the fold is even along the edges of the table runner.

Use an iron to press the fold.

Step 7. Securing the Binding

Lay the table runner onto the prepared backing, making sure it is centered within the folded edges. Adjust the placement carefully to ensure the corners are square and the runner sits evenly inside the binding.

Fold the raw edge of the backing fabric under by 5/8 inch to create a finished seam. Work around the entire runner, folding and smoothing the edges as you go.

You will use of course the line drawn in advance (visible in the image below) which marks the seam allowance.

Pin the folded edges in place, securing the binding neatly. To save time, I use “Magic Pins” because they can withstand heat, allowing me to press over them without removing them. This eliminates the need for basting and keeps everything in place.

Taylor Seville Fine Magic Pins

After pinning the binding in place, press over the table runner to set the folds. The heat from the iron helps crease the fabric and keeps the edges neatly folded. Once pressed, carefully remove the pins, as the binding will now hold its shape.

Before topstitching, apply hem tape, a double-sided fusible tape, under the folded edges of the binding. Press the binding again to activate the adhesive, securing the edges firmly in place. This prevents shifting while sewing, making it easier to achieve a nice topstitch.

With the binding securely in place, stitch close to the inner edge of the folded backing fabric. A straight stitch works well for this step.

✅Related tutorial: Types of Sewing Machine Stitches: Straight Stitch

Sew all the way around the table runner, ensuring the stitching stays even and close to the edge. Take your time at the corners to keep the mitered folds neat.

Now give the table runner a final press. Use a pressing cloth to protect the ribbons and sequins from direct heat. Pressing smooths out any wrinkles and helps set the stitches. 

Now, the table runner is complete and ready to be used.

Did you find this tutorial helpful? If so, save this pin (see below) on your sewing board so you can come to this tutorial later when you are ready, and follow me on Pinterest for more tips, tutorials, and inspiration!