How To Sew A Ruffle Using Traditional Two-Row Gathering Technique

What You’ll Need

• Fabric for ruffles (typically 1.5 to 3 times the length of your finished ruffle)
• Sewing machine
• Thread (in a color contrasting your fabric)
• Regular sewing tools and notions

Cutting Fabric for Ruffles

Accurate cutting is the foundation for well-made ruffles. Take your time with this step to create beautiful, even ruffles. Here are some key points to consider when cutting fabric for your ruffles.

Determine the Ruffle Length

1. Measure the length where you’ll attach the ruffle (e.g., hemline, neckline, sleeve edge, etc.).
2. Multiply this measurement by 1.5 to 3, depending on how full you want your ruffles. For example:
   • For light gathering: multiply by 1.5
   • For medium fullness: multiply by 2
   • For very full ruffles: multiply by 2.5 or 3

Consider the Fabric Type

1. Lightweight fabrics like chiffon or organza may require more fullness (use a higher multiplier).
2. Heavier fabrics like cotton or linen might need less fullness to avoid bulk.

Width Considerations

1. Determine your desired finished ruffle width.
2. Add seam allowances to both long edges if you’re finishing both edges.
3. Double the width if you’re folding the strip in half lengthwise before gathering.

Cutting Process

1. Press your fabric to remove any wrinkles before cutting.
2. Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter with a cutting mat for precise edges.
3. If your ruffle is longer than your fabric width, cut multiple strips and plan to join them.
4. For most ruffles, cut along the crosswise grain (perpendicular to the selvage). This provides more stretch and gather.

Tips

• Sometimes you’ll need to cut curved pieces instead of straight strips if you want to make circular ruffles. 
• If your fabric has a directional print, be mindful of the pattern orientation when cutting.
• For delicate woven fabrics (like chiffon), consider ripping the fabric to prevent distortion. I do it all the time but it’s somewhat controversial technique. But it’s really an effective method for creating straight edges for ruffles from lightweight woven fabrics. 

Choosing the Right Thread for Gathering

If you want to create ruffles using the traditional gathering technique, the choice of thread is crucial. Here are some important considerations.

Strength is Key

1. Use a strong thread, especially in the bobbin. The gathering process puts significant stress on the thread, so strength is essential to prevent breakage during gathering.
   
2. Avoid thin threads like serger or embroidery thread, as these are more likely to break under the tension of gathering.
   
3. All-purpose polyester thread in size 40 is generally fine for most gathering projects. However, for heavier fabrics or when you want extra security, consider using a stronger thread in size 30.
   

Testing Thread Strength

Before starting your project, it’s a good idea to test the strength of your thread. So, take the thread spool, hold the thread in each hand and give it a firm tug. If the thread breaks easily, it’s not suitable for gathering. Choose a stronger option.

Use Contrasting Thread Colors

Using a contrasting thread color for your gathering stitches offers several advantages.

1. It makes the basting stitches easier to see, which is helpful when you’re adjusting your gathers.
2. Contrasting thread is easier to remove once you’ve secured your ruffles in place.
3. If any basting stitches remain visible in the final product, they’ll be easier to spot and remove.

Thread Recommendations

Below are some reliable thread options from Amazon for gathering fabric.

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. 

Gutermann Thread Set

4-PACK – Coats & Clark – Dual Duty XP Heavy Weight Thread

Recently I bought this no name thread and it’s quite strong

Sewing Thread Kit

The right thread really makes a difference in the ease and success of your gathering process. Don’t hesitate to invest in quality thread – it’s a small expense that can save you a lot of frustration and ensure better results in your ruffle-making projects.

Step-by-Step Process

To demonstrate this ruffling technique, I’m going to show you how I created a ruffle for my latest Christmas sewing project – a reversible cross-back Christmas apron.

1. Prepare the fabric strip

1. Cut your fabric to the desired width and length. The width should be your finished ruffle width plus seam allowances. The length should be 1.5 to 3 times longer than your desired finished ruffle length, depending on how full you want your ruffles.
   
2. If necessary, sew shorter strips together to achieve the desired length.
   
3. Finish the raw edge of the strip before gathering. It prevents fraying and gives your ruffle a more polished look. You have many options for finishing the edge, for example, these:

• Use a serger (overlock machine) to create a clean, professional finish.
• If you don’t have a serger, use a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
• For a more decorative edge, consider using a rolled hem foot on your sewing machine.
• For delicate fabrics, you might choose a narrow double-folded hem.

For this project, I used a very interesting wave stitch on my Triumph serger to create the decorative edge you see in the image below.

4. Press the fabric strip flat with an iron. Pay special attention to the finished edge to ensure it lies smooth and flat.

2. Sew two rows of basting stitches

1. Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length available (typically 4-5mm). Adjust the tension to be close to 0.
   
2. If you’re working with a long ruffle, such as for a dress hem, it’s better to gather in sections. For shorter ruffles, this step isn’t necessary. For longer pieces, divide your fabric into manageable lengths (halves or quarters) and mark these sections with pins or fabric chalk.
   
3. Sew the first row of basting stitches about 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. If working in sections, start and stop at your marked points, leaving long thread tails (about 4-6 inches) at the beginning and end of each section.
   
4. Sew a second row of basting stitches about 1/4 inch from the first row, further from the edge of the fabric. Again, if working in sections, align your starts and stops with the first row.

5. Ensure you leave long thread tails (about 4-6 inches) at the beginning and end of each row or section.

6. Do not backstitch or lock your stitches at either end. This allows the threads to slide freely when gathering.

By gathering in sections for longer ruffles, you’ll have better control over the process and achieve more even gathers throughout the length of your ruffle. For shorter ruffles, you can gather in one continuous length.

3. Pull the threads to gather

1. Find the bobbin threads at one end of your fabric strip.
2. Gently pull on the bobbin threads of both rows simultaneously, while holding the fabric in your other hand.
3. As you pull, use your fingers to push the fabric along the threads, creating gathers.
4. Continue until you’ve gathered the fabric to your desired length.

4. Distribute gathers evenly

1. Before you start adjusting, bring both threads (top and bobbin) to the same side of the fabric at both ends.
   
2. At one end, tie both threads together with a secure knot. This end will remain fixed as you adjust the gathers.

3. At the other end, use a pin to hold the threads. Loop the threads over the pin. This pinned end allows for easier adjustments to the ruffle length.
4. Spread your gathered fabric out and begin adjusting the gathers evenly along the entire length.

5. You can use pins to mark additional sections to help distribute gathers uniformly.
6. Gently manipulate the gathers between your fingers to ensure even distribution. Work from one end to the other, smoothing and adjusting as you go.

7. If you need to adjust the length of the ruffle, you can easily reposition the pin at the adjustable end. This allows you to fine-tune the ruffle length without having to undo and redo knots.
8. Once you’re satisfied with both the distribution of gathers and the overall length, you can choose to either leave the pin in place (if you’re immediately attaching the ruffle) or tie off the threads at the pinned end with a knot for more security.

Tips for Even Gathering

• Use a contrasting thread color for your basting stitches to make them easier to see and remove later.
• Sew your basting stitches on the right side of the fabric for easier thread removal.
• For very long pieces, consider gathering in sections to maintain better control.
• Be patient. Take your time to adjust the gathers until they look even.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Broken threads

• When a thread breaks, you need to remove the broken row of stitching completely. Since these are basting stitches, they’re easy to remove – simply pull gently on the thread from one end, and it should come out easily without damaging the fabric.
• Once the broken row is removed, re-sew the row of basting stitches. Make sure to maintain the same distance from the edge or the other row of stitching as before.
• To prevent breakage, pull gently and evenly on both bobbin threads.
• Use a high-quality thread for your basting stitches. 

Uneven gathers

• If your gathers are uneven, gently redistribute them by hand before attaching the ruffle to your project.
• Use pins or a marking pen to section off your gathered fabric, ensuring even distribution.

By following this traditional gathering technique, you’ll be able to create beautiful, evenly distributed ruffles for a variety of sewing projects. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts aren’t flawless. With time and experience, you’ll master the art of creating perfect ruffles.

Attaching the Ruffle to the Fabric

Prepare your main fabric – mark the area where the ruffle will be attached.

Select a thread that matches your fabric color. While contrasting thread is useful for basting and gathering stitches, when it comes to the final attachment of your ruffle, matching thread will help your stitches disappear into the fabric, enhancing the overall appearance of your project.

Pin the ruffle in place adjusting gathers as needed.

Using a regular stitch length, sew the ruffle to the main fabric. Stitch just between your gathering stitches.

Once you’re satisfied with the attached ruffle, carefully remove the gathering stitches.

Did you find this sewing tutorial on how to make ruffles useful? If yes, why not save this pin to your Pinterest board? That way, you can easily return to the article whenever you need a refresher on DIY ruffles. And for an ongoing stream of handy tips, tutorials, and all sorts of creative inspiration, make sure to follow me on Pinterest.

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