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How To Make Quilt Binding From Start To Finish – Easy Binding Tips And Tricks

So, you’ve poured your heart and soul into creating a beautiful quilt, stitching together ideas and fabric with equal care. The colors sing, the pattern’s perfect, and you’re feeling pretty proud. But those edges? The quilt is looking a bit rough and unfinished, like a beautiful painting without a frame.  And now you’re staring at those raw edges, wondering how you’re going to finish this masterpiece. All those mitered corners and continuous strips can seem intimidating. But with the right technique, binding can be fun. We’ll take it step by step, and before you know it, you’ll be binding quilts so beautifully, your great-grandma’s sewing circle would give you a standing ovation.

Making quilt binding with a sewing machine

It’s like putting a frame on a painting, except this frame is soft, huggable, and occasionally tries to escape while you’re sewing it.

So, let me show you how to turn those ragged edges into a crisp, professional borders. It’s going to be sew much fun! (Sorry, I couldn’t resist the pun!). But it can also be a test of patience sometimes. 

Stay tuned for these exciting episodes in our binding saga. 

Step 1. Cutting and Preparing Binding Strips

Let’s kick off this binding adventure with some strip-tastic action. I’m talking about cutting those binding strips for my baby quilt. No bias cuts here – I’m going straight for the cross grain of my quilting cotton. 

My mission? I make sure those strips are straighter than a ruler’s edge when I unfold them. I’m talking perfection, people!

For this baby blanket binding, I’m cutting strips 3.25 inches wide.  Why so specific, you ask? Well, I’m aiming for a final binding width of 1/2 inch.

So, how to measure quilt binding? Time to break out the measuring tape and do a little quilt perimeter math. That tells me exactly how much binding I need to cut. No guesswork here.

I lay the fabric down on my cutting mat and fold it in half lengthwise, with those selvedges snuggling up together. This gives me a nice, crisp folded edge to work with.

Next, I line up that folded edge with one of the horizontal lines on my cutting mat. I smooth it out, making sure there are no wrinkles or bubbles.

lay the fabric down on my cutting mat and fold it in half lengthwise

Next, I place my ruler perpendicular to the fold, aligning it with one of the vertical lines on the mat. I hold that ruler down like it’s trying to escape (well, sometimes it feels like it is).

place my ruler perpendicular to the fold

Now, using my rotary cutter, I make a clean, swift cut along the edge of the ruler. It’s one continuous motion – no stops and starts. 

To cut the next strip, I simply slide my ruler over to my desired width (in this case, 3.25 inches), line it up, and repeat the process.

slide my ruler over to my desired width

The key is to keep that fabric folded and aligned with the mat’s grid lines for every cut. 

When I unfold these strips, they’re curve free.

unfolded fabric after cutting using a rotary cutter

✅ Related tutorial: How To Accurately Cut Fabric For Quilting With A Rotary Cutter

I guess, practice makes perfect. So don’t be discouraged if your first few attempts look like they’ve been cut by a toddler with safety scissors. 

Now, unless you’ve got fabric longer than a giraffe’s neck, you’ll probably need to join those strips. Overlap those ends, sew at a 45-degree angle, and you’ve got a seamless binding strip.

Overlap those ends, sew at a 45-degree angle to have a seamless binding strip

Step 2. Positioning the Binding Strip

So, here I am with my long binding strip that I’ve made from four individual strips. 

I fold it in half lengthwise and press it with my iron. 

fold it in half lengthwise and press it with my iron

Now I need to figure out the perfect starting point for attaching this binding to my quilt. 

Here’s a pro tip I always follow: I lay the strip over all sides of the quilt and play a game of “Spot the Seam.” The goal? Make sure those joining seams aren’t hanging out at the corners. We want them on the sides, not crashing the corners. If you see it happened, readjust your starting point until there are no seams near the corners.

Once I’ve got my starting point figured out, I’m ready to begin the binding attachment. But wait! I leave about 9-10  inches of the strip unattached at the start. If you get the start right, the rest will fall into place beautifully. So take your time, double-check everything, and get ready for attaching that binding.

Step 3: Gearing Up the Sewing Machine

Get your sewing machine ready for some serious binding action.

First up, thread selection. I’m not messing around here – only the good stuff will do. I pick a high-quality thread. White color. 

✅ Related tutorial: What Is The Best Thread For Sewing Machine Projects? Let’s Find Out!

Next, I wind a bobbin with this thread. A well-wound bobbin is necessary for smooth sewing, after all.

Time for a quick needle change. I pop in a fresh, sharp Universal needle size 80/12. It’s like giving my sewing machine a little energy boost.

✅ Related tutorial: How To Choose The Right Sewing Machine Needle For Your Project

Now, the presser foot dilemma. While there are fancy binding feet out there, I like it simple. I stick with my regular universal foot. 

I adjust the tension to make sure it’s just right – not too tight, not too loose. 

Stitch length is next on the agenda. I set it to about 2.5mm – perfect for securing that binding without creating a perforated edge.

And of course, I choose a straight stitch. No fancy business here, just good old-fashioned straight lines.

With my machine all set up, I’m ready to sew. 

Step 4. Aligning and Securing the Binding

I take my folded binding strip and place it on the quilt. I make sure the raw edges of the binding are placed on the raw edge of the quilt. 

I secure the binding at the starting point with a clip.

Here’s where I diverge from the pin-everything-down school of thought. I don’t bother pinning or clipping the entire length of the binding. Nope, I simply align those raw edges by hand as I sew along. 

✅ Related tutorial: Sewing Clips vs. Pins | Which To Choose?

This method keeps things flowing smoothly and allows for minor adjustments on the fly. 

Step 5. Sewing the Binding and Making Mitered Corners

Alright, it’s time to start sewing this binding on. I’m aiming for a 1/2 inch seam allowance, that’s why I cut the strips 3.25 inches wide, so keep that in mind.

Sewing the Binding with half inch allowance

Now, let’s talk about the trickiest part – corners. 

  1. As you approach the corner, keep an eye on your progress. You need to stop 1/2 inch from the edge (matching the seam allowance). If you’re not confident, go ahead and mark that spot. It’s better to stop a smidge early than to overshoot – there’s no going back.
  2. Take your project out before the big corner maneuver.
  3. Now, imagine you are an origami master. Fold the binding strip up diagonally to create a 45-degree angle at the crease. It should look like a perfect little triangle sitting there. The strip should now be perpendicular to the side you just sewed, with its raw edge parallel to the next side. 
 stop half inch from the edge

4. Next, fold the strip back down, aligning the fold with the top edge of your quilt. The raw edges should be all lined up together again.

5. Start stitching again right from the edge of the quilt. No hesitation, just go for it.

Start stitching again right from the edge of the quilt

6. Continue around the entire quilt, repeating this procedure at each corner.

Every perfect corner is a little victory in the quilting world. 

Step 6. Joining Quilt Binding Ends

Ok, so let’s go to the next exciting episode in our binding saga. It’s time for the binding join. Let’s break it down.

  1. When you’re about 9-10 inches from where you started, stop sewing.
  2. Lay the ends of your binding strips on top of each other. If they’re too long, give them a little trim.
  3. The beginning strip should be lounging on the bottom, while the end strip is sitting on top.
  4. Measure the width of your binding strip (mine’s 3.25 inches) from the end of the bottom strip and make a mark
Measure the width of your binding strip (mine's 3.25 inches) from the end of the bottom strip and make a mark


5. Now, align the top strip over the bottom one and transfer that mark.

align the top strip over the bottom one and transfer that mark
align the top strip over the bottom one and transfer that mark
align the top strip over the bottom one and transfer that mark


6. Cut that top strip right at the mark.

Cut that top strip right at the mark

7. Overlap those freshly cut ends and sew them together at a 45-degree angle.

Overlap those freshly cut ends and sew them together

8. Cut close to the seam (but not too close), then finger press that seam open.

Cut close to the seam

And voilà! The strips are now joined, ready to hug your quilt.

strips are now joined

Now, go forth and finish sewing that binding. 

Step 7. Turning the Binding

It’s time for turning that binding over and creating those professional corners. 

  1. Grab that binding and flip it over to the back of the quilt.
  2. Now, feast your eyes on those corners. They should be perfectly mitered on this side. 
Grab that binding and flip it over

3. Flip your quilt over and check out the back. The corners here need a bit of coaxing. Just fold them properly, and voila! They’re mitered perfection on this side too.
4. I like to use Wonder clips to hold the binding in place. They are very helpful.
5. Work your way around the quilt, flipping, folding, and clipping as you go.

Work your way around the quilt

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. 

Don’t have Wonder clips yet? I bought mine on Amazon.


MumCraft Multipurpose Sewing Clips with Tin Box Package, Assorted Colors, Pack of 100
MumCraft Multipurpose Sewing Clips

This is the moment where your quilt truly comes together. 

As you make your way around the quilt, take a moment to appreciate how far you’ve come. From piecing to quilting to binding, you’ve been on quite a journey. And now, with each clip and fold, you’re putting the final touches on your creation.

Step 8. How to Hand Sew Binding on a Quilt 

We’ve reached the final step – securing that beautiful binding with stitches. 

  1. While machine stitching is an option, hand-sewing offers precision and control, especially when dealing with a large quilt.
  2. We’re going for the invisible stitch. It’s there, doing its job, but nobody sees it.
  3. Thread matters – don’t skimp on thread quality. Use strong threads that won’t break easily.
Use strong threads that won't break easily

4. Self-threading needles are your best friends here.
5. Begin by anchoring your thread inside the quilt.
6. Work your way around the quilt, using the invisible stitch.
7. When you reach the end of your thread, secure it with a few good knots. 

I personally prefer using self-threading needles for binding, and I’ve had great success with Singer self-threading needles. They’ve always worked well for me, making the binding process a bit faster.

use self-threading needles for binding


SINGER 00280 Self-Threading (Calyxeye) Hand Sewing Needles, Assorted Sizes, 10-Count,
SINGER Self-Threading Hand Sewing Needles

However, some of my readers have reported issues with self-threading needles. 

One common complaint is that the thread keeps coming out of the needle during sewing. This can be really annoying, especially when you’re in the middle of a long binding project. After looking into it, I realized that this issue comes from using no-name or generic self-threading needles. These lower-quality alternatives often have rough edges or poorly constructed eyes so the thread can slip out easily with the motion of stitching.

This issue is less common with high-quality needles like Singer, which typically have a more secure eye design. If you’re experiencing this problem, it might be worth investing in better quality self-threading needles to save yourself the frustration of constantly re-threading.

After finishing my first thread of binding by hand, I noticed my middle finger had a small patch of broken skin. Oops! Time to break out the thimble.

 my middle finger had a small patch of broken skin

I have quite the collection of thimbles – five different types, to be exact. I’ve used the plastic one before, but this time it just didn’t feel right. But my Dritz leather thimble was the most comfortable by far. 

Dritz leather thimble was the most comfortable by far

It fit perfectly and felt so natural that I almost forgot I was wearing it. Yet there it was, faithfully protecting my finger with none of the awkwardness while I continued binding my quilt. Definitely my new go-to for hand sewing.

Dritz leather thimble protecting my finger


Dritz 3066 Leather Thimble, One Size Fits All , White
Dritz 3066 Leather Thimble

I think this one from Clover might be similar to the Dritz thimble.


MEDIUM -THIMBLE LEATHER NATU
MEDIUM -THIMBLE LEATHER NATU

Hand-stitching your binding isn’t just about functionality; it’s about adding that personal touch to your quilt. Each stitch is a tiny signature, a testament to the care and love you’ve poured into your project.

Take your time, find a comfortable spot, and maybe put on your favorite show or podcast as you stitch. This is your moment to bond with your quilt one last time before it embarks on its journey of keeping someone warm and cozy.

And there you have it – the final step in your quilting odyssey. Your quilt is now bound, beautiful, and ready to face the world.

Quilt I made with binding

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