How to Hem Jeans with The Original Hem

Instructions

Step 1. Determine the Desired Length of Your Jeans

Put on your jeans, stand in front of a mirror, and fold up the bottom to the length you want. Wear the shoes you plan to wear with these jeans. Ensure the length is comfortable even when you are sitting down.  

After you have determined the desired length, ask a friend to help you pin the hem in place temporarily. But you can also do it yourself because denim is a sturdy material and the folds will not unfold when you bend to pin them.

This will allow you to see how the jeans will look at the new length and make any necessary adjustments before you start sewing. When pinning the hem, check that it is even all the way around, and use strong and sturdy straight pins that can hold the thick denim fabric securely in place.

In the image below, you can see me trying on a pair of jeans in front of the mirror. I have always wanted pink jeans because it's my favorite color, but when I found a pair that I liked, they were way too long. I folded one leg of the jeans to the length I wanted, while the second leg remained unfolded. But you should fold both legs of course. 

These are not the jeans that I am hemming for this tutorial. I am actually hemming my husband's jeans with the original hem. However, I forgot to take the proper image for step 1, so I took this image of me trying on the jeans instead.



Related tutorial: How Long Should Pants Be? A Comprehensive Guide To Hemming Pants

Step 2. Measure the Folded Length and Calculate a New Fold for Hemming Jeans with the Original Hem

• Take off the jeans
• Put them on a flat surface
• Mark the new fold line with chalk
• Take off the pins 
• Unfold the hem

Measure the distance between the marks and the bottom of the jeans, and make sure to include the original hemline. I measured 3 ⅞” . You number will be different of course. 

Divide this measurement in half (on a piece of paper). My number is 1 15/16”. That’s all we will need to calculate the new fold. 

Step 3. Fold and Secure the New Fold

Now use this number to create a new mark: measure this distance from the inside edge of the original hem. 

It’s very important NOT TO INCLUDE THE ORIGINAL HEM IN THIS MEASUREMENT. You need to measure this distance all the way around the leg. These new marks show the new fold line.

Fold the jeans along the marks and secure the folded section with pins.



Pin the seams first - the side seam and the inside seam,  and make sure that the seams match. Then, pin the fold in the middle.



You can press the new fold to create a crisp edge before stitching.



I like to baste the new fold by hand sewing close to the inside edge of the original hem. This basting stitch is especially important to keep the seams matched so they don’t misalign under the presser foot when you sew.

Step 4. Prepare Your Sewing Machine for Hemming Jeans with the Original Hem

Install a zipper foot. There are a few types of zipper feet available, but the narrow foot is the best one to use. If you don't have a narrow foot, you can use the one you have.



Insert a special denim needle.



Next, adjust the needle drop position so that the needle will sew very close to the inside edge of the original hem. This will ensure that your stitching is as close to the original hem as possible.

Thread the machine with the thread that matches the color of your jeans, and fill the bobbin with the same thread. Adjust the sewing machine tension to ensure that the stitches are even and the thread doesn't break.

Adjust the stitch length - 3.5 is a good length for denim. 

Before you start sewing on your jeans, it's a good idea to try the settings on a scrap piece of denim and make any necessary changes. This will help you get a feel for the machine settings so that the stitching looks neat and professional.

Step 5. Stitch Close to the Original Hem

Stitch as close to the original hem as possible without going into it. You can use the free arm on your sewing machine slipping the pant leg onto it.

Step 6. Trim Excess Fabric and Finish the Edges

After sewing, turn the folded seam allowance inside the pant legs and try on the jeans to confirm that the new length is good. If any adjustments are needed, use a seam ripper and make the necessary changes.

Depending on the amount of fabric you had to fold for the new hem, you may want to trim the inside folded edge especially if you actually hemmed it up quite a bit.  If you're satisfied with the alteration, mark a line from the folded edge, leaving about ⅝” of seam allowance,  and cut off any excess fabric inside the jeans. 

Step 7. Finish the Raw Edges to Prevent Fraying

There are many ways to finish the raw edges, you can read about all of them in my tutorial How To Stop Fabric From Fraying: 21 Proven Ways That Work. 

For this project, I used my serger to overcast the raw edges.

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Step 8. Secure the Seam Allowance

Press the hem making sure that the seam allowances stay inside the jeans and the hem is nice and flat.



You need to keep this seam allowance in place because sometimes it might flip out as your foot comes through the bottom edge. It can be frustrating and require constant adjustment. 

To prevent this from happening, there are a few things you can do. 

One option is to add some machine stitches along the side seam. By sewing a line of stitches about a half inch from the edge, you can attach the seam allowance to the rest of the fabric, which will help to keep it in place and prevent it from flipping out.



Another option is to top stitch along the entire folded edge. This topstitching will keep the seam allowance in place on the inside of the leg. But I don’t like it because the seam will be noticeable, unfortunately, even if you perfectly match the thread to the color of your jeans.

You can also do some hand stitches at the side seam and inside seam areas.