From Frustration to Finesse: A Foolproof Method for Hemming Chiffon and Sheer Fabrics

Hemming a dress made of chiffon fabric can feel like trying to pin down a wisp of smoke. This slippery material seems to have a mind of its own, constantly shape-shifting just when you think you’ve got it under control. But there are some clever sewing hacks to make this task less of a headache.

One of the methods involves using a ban roll tape, and I wrote about this fantastic solution in my previous tutorials – Narrow hem tutorial: how to make a narrow hem using Ban Roll tape.  However, finding ban roll tape these days isn’t easy.

So, in this tutorial, I will show you how to use buckram fabric to create a beautiful, even narrow hem without the usual frustrations. It’s a widely available alternative that works beautifully for this purpose. It’s simple, quick, and produces results that look wonderfully professional.

What is Buckram Fabric

Buckram fabric is a stiff, woven material commonly used in hat-making, bag supports, and craft projects because of its structure and durability. Its defining feature is its loose weave, where the threads are clearly visible, intersecting at right angles. 

This open weave allows you to pull out a few threads along one edge, creating a frayed effect that is essential for this hemming technique.

The stiffness of buckram is what makes it particularly valuable for hemming slippery fabrics like chiffon. Unlike other materials that might collapse or shift, the rigidity of buckram keeps the fabric stable and provides a reliable edge to guide your sewing. 

This stability, combined with its ability to create a frayed edge, makes buckram an excellent tool for sewing hems. 

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. 

How to Use Buckram for Making Narrow Hems

Step 1. Prepare Your Buckram Strip

First things first, grab your measuring tape and measure how long your hem is. 

Now, cut a strip of buckram (about one inch wide or 1 1/4″) that’s just a bit longer than your hem – better to have a little extra than come up short. 

Buckram is super easy to cut if you follow its weave threads. Just align your scissors with a lengthwise thread, and you can’t go wrong.

Keep in mind: if you have a long hem and the length of your buckram fabric is shorter than your hem length, you might need to cut 2 strips of buckram. You can easily join them later in the process.

Now comes the fun part: we’re going to create a frayed edge on the buckram. Take a pin and gently pull out a few threads lengthwise. You can remove 3-5 threads, depending on how wide you want your hem to be.

We’re only pulling out the threads that run along the length of the buckram. Leave those crosswise threads alone – they’re going to create that frayed effect we’re after. The width of this frayed edge will end up being the same as your hem width.

And just like that, you’re on your way to mastering one of the coolest sewing hacks for hemming tricky fabrics like chiffon.

Step 2. Position the Buckram on Your Fabric 

Place the prepared buckram on the right side of your fabric, aligning the frayed edge with the fabric’s edge.

Secure the buckram strip with pins as you go. If you’re working with delicate fabrics like silk chiffon, use special pins designed for silk – they’re super thin and sharp, so they won’t leave any holes in your fabric.

You don’t have to place the buckram right at the fabric’s edge. If you want to make sure your stitches catch the chiffon fabric, you can position the buckram about ¼ inch from the edge. Just remember, that you’ll need to trim off the excess fabric later.

Work your way around the entire hem with the buckram. When you reach your starting point, overlap the ends slightly. (That’s why we cut the strip a bit longer.) If you needed to use two strips of buckram, this is where you’ll join them – just overlap the ends slightly.

Step 3. Stitch Over the Frayed Edge of the Buckram

Now it’s time to put your sewing machine to work. First, make sure you’re using the right needle – a universal needle size 70/10 is perfect for chiffon fabric.

Set your stitch length to 3.5 – 4 mm. This longer stitch length makes it easier to remove the stitches later and helps prevent damage to delicate fabrics like chiffon.

Adjust your machine’s tension to 0. You’ll be removing these stitches later, so a looser tension makes them much easier to take out without risking damage to your fabric.

These settings help create a temporary hold that’s secure enough for the next steps but won’t leave lasting marks on your fabric.

Stitch over the frayed edge along the length of the hem, being careful not to catch any of the lengthwise threads that aren’t frayed.

Step 4. Sew the Hem

Now comes the exciting part – actually sewing your hem! 

But first, adjust your sewing machine settings:

1. Change your stitch length to 3mm.
2. Set your tension to normal for chiffon (this may vary depending on your machine).

Now – flip the fabric over the buckram strip. The narrow hem you’re creating will be wrapped around the frayed part of the buckram.

Some sewists like to press the hem before stitching, but in my experience, it works better without this step. It’s up to you and how you prefer to work. 

Start sewing the hem. As you stitch, make sure the fabric is wrapping neatly around the frayed edge of the buckram. This creates a clean, professional-looking narrow hem.

Focus on sewing as straight as possible. A straight stitch line is key to achieving a neat hem, especially on delicate fabrics like chiffon.

Step 5. Remove the Buckram and Finish the Hem

You’re almost at the finish line! 

Carefully pull out the buckram strip. Take your time with this step to avoid stretching or distorting your newly sewn hem. If you encounter any resistance, stop and gently ease the buckram out.

Once the buckram is removed, you’ll see the first line of stitches you made to secure it in place. Using a seam ripper or small, sharp scissors, carefully remove these stitches. Work slowly to avoid catching or damaging the fabric.

After removing the temporary stitches, give your hem a final press. This will smooth out any small wrinkles and set the hem beautifully.

Take a moment to inspect your work. You should now have a neat, professional-looking narrow hem. 

This technique is one of those invaluable sewing hacks that can make hemming chiffon fabric a breeze. It’s especially useful when you’re figuring out how to hem a dress made from slippery or delicate materials.

The key to success with this method is patience and precision. Take your time with each step, and you’ll be rewarded with a beautifully finished garment that looks like it came straight from a high-end boutique!

---

Buckram vs. Ban Roll Tape

If you’re interested in perfecting your sewing techniques, check out my tutorial on sewing narrow hems with ban roll tape. While buckram offers a great alternative, understanding different methods can expand your repertoire of sewing hacks and make challenging projects more enjoyable.

Buckram and ban roll tape are both great for creating neat narrow hems on delicate fabrics, but they have some differences.

Buckram is a stiff, woven interfacing with a visible loose weave. Its threads run perpendicularly, forming a grid pattern. This open weave allows you to pull threads from one edge, creating a frayed effect that guides the fabric fold during hemming. Ban roll tape is a specially designed waistband interfacing with a tight weave. It also allows you to pull threads along one edge to create a guide, but the weave is denser than buckram.

Buckram is stiffer than ban roll tape.

Buckram is widely available in fabric stores and online. Ban roll tape is harder to find in stores, often requiring online searches or specialty shops.

Let me know how this works for you – I’d love to hear about your experience with buckram for hemming.

Did you like this guide? If you did, don’t forget to bookmark this pin (see below) on your sewing Pinterest board! That way, you can easily return to this post on sewing narrow hems using buckram fabric whenever you’re ready to start using it. Plus, make sure to follow me on Pinterest to stay updated with more sewing advice, step-by-step guides, and creative inspiration!

---