Mastering the Art of Sewing with Metallic Thread

Do you like sewing with metallic threads? They are so beautiful! Who doesn’t love a bit of sparkle in their creations? However, metallic threads can be hard to work with. But with the right techniques, you can overcome these challenges and enjoy sewing with these beautiful threads. In this tutorial, I’ll share some practical tips to help you handle metallic threads with ease, so you can confidently add that extra shine to your projects.

#1. Use Good Quality Metallic Thread for Sewing

Twenty years ago, I had a frustrating experience sewing with metallic thread. Threads would tangle and break constantly, and I had to stop frequently just to complete a simple stitch. Back then, I had no knowledge about thread quality or brands. I simply bought shiny metallic threads on eBay because they looked appealing, but their performance was poor.

Today, the situation has greatly improved. Now we have high-quality metallic threads from reputable brands that are specifically designed for sewing machines. These threads are less prone to tangling and breaking if you follow the proper recommendations.

Note: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This means I will receive a commission if you order a product through one of my links. I only recommend products I believe in and use myself. 

However, even the best metallic threads can still break frequently if you don’t know the right techniques for sewing with them.

#2. Choose the Right Fabric

I like to use fabrics with a smooth, closely-woven surface. High count linens, cottons, and silks work well because they provide a stable base for the thread. Stay away from loosely woven fabrics; they can cause the metallic thread to break more easily.

Heavier fabrics handle metallic threads better. They provide more support and reduce the chances of the thread breaking.

Choose smooth fabrics because rough or textured fabrics create extra resistance. Also, the metallic thread doesn’t show up well on these fabrics.

I also consider the color of the fabric in relation to the metallic thread. Choose a color that complements the metallic thread and enhances the overall design of your project. Light-colored fabrics don’t go well with light metallic thread like gold or silver because it won’t be visible. These threads show up better on darker fabrics. However, dark metallic thread can be visible on light fabrics, creating a nice contrast.

#3. Use the Right Sewing Machine Needle

Topstitching and embroidery needles can be a good choice too. 

Invest in high-quality needles from reputable brands. Cheap needles can have rough eyes or burrs that can damage the delicate metallic thread, and that leads to frequent breaks.

You can try different needles to see which one works best for your sewing machine and the brand of metallic thread you are using. Sometimes, one type of needle may work better with a certain brand of metallic threads.

No matter which type of needle you use, it’s important to change it frequently when working with metallic thread. This prevents the needle from becoming dull and causing the thread to break. Old needles can develop burrs and scratches that catch the metallic filaments and cause breakage. Even the smallest burr can cause problems.

#4. Adjust Sewing Machine Settings for Metallic Threads

When using metallic threads, it’s important to adjust your sewing machine settings.

Sometimes I need to lower the thread tension to prevent them from breaking. On my Janome 6600P machine, I usually set it to 1 instead of the usual 4. Metallic threads are very thin and can easily break if the tension is too high. So, on some machines, it’s better to use a loose top tension when working with metallic thread.

However, if the tension is too low, the thread might loop on the bobbin side and create a mess. Make small adjustments until the stitches are even on both the top and bottom of the fabric.

On my Brother Luminaire machine, I don’t need to lower the tension, it works better with regular tension of 3.6. 

So, test your machine settings, because every machine is different.

Use a slightly longer stitch length for the stitch you plan to use. This helps reduce friction on the thread and makes the stitching process smoother. A longer stitch length is also good because the thread is more visible on the fabric.

#5. Choose Stitches You Are Going to Use

Straight stitches might be better to use because they minimize friction, but they are so simple that thin metallic thread will be almost invisible. Luckily, there are many decorative stitches to choose from. Modern metallic threads are designed to handle these stitches without breaking.

Just remember to test them on a scrap piece of fabric first. This way, you can see how they look and make sure everything runs smoothly before you start on your actual project.

#6. Use Thin Polyester Thread in the Bobbin

You can use metallic thread in the bobbin, but it’s more prone to breakage than regular thread. So, in this case, have extra patience and be prepared to re-thread the machine more often. You will need to wind the bobbin slowly and evenly to prevent the metallic thread from breaking. Metallic threads are easily damaged by tight winding.

Some modern machines can have a separate bobbin case for metallic threads so you can change the bobbin case if you have it. Just adjust the tension in this bobbin case specifically for metallic threads. Just like with the upper thread, you may need to lower the bobbin tension to accommodate the metallic thread. 

#7. Understand the Difference Between Stacked Wound and Cross Wound Spools of Metallic Threads

Knowing how to correctly position your metallic thread spools can make a big difference in your sewing experience. Here’s what you need to know about stacked wound and cross wound spools.

Stacked wound threads are designed to rotate as the spool empties. For best results, place these spools on a vertical pin, allowing the thread to come off the side. This method is often seen in older sewing machines and some basic modern ones like the Janome 2212. 

Some sewing machines come with both horizontal and vertical spool pin options. If your machine only has a horizontal spool pin, you can purchase a special thread stand with a vertical spool pin. 

One common issue with metallic thread is that it can easily wrap around the spool pin or other parts of the sewing machine. Here are some tips to help you avoid this problem. 

First, use cones with a stable base whenever possible. This helps keep the thread steady and reduces the chances of it tangling.

If you’re using stacked wound metallic thread, ensure that the thread unwinds from the side of the spool. Position the spool so that the thread runs in a clockwise direction to maintain smooth unwinding.

For cross wound spools or cones, make sure the thread unwinds over the top. This setup helps the thread flow smoothly and minimizes the risk of it getting caught or tangled.

#8. Use a Thread Net for Cross Wound Cones

A thread net is a mesh sleeve that fits over a cone of thread. Metallic threads are prone to kinking, tangling, and slipping off the cone due to their slippery and delicate nature. A thread net helps control the thread’s unwinding process, preventing these issues.

#9. Keep the Thread Ends Secured

To prevent your metallic thread from tangling, always return the spool to its storage container after each use. Secure the end of the thread by placing a piece of scotch tape on it. This keeps the thread from unraveling and makes it easy to find the end next time you need it. However, scotch tape isn’t always the best option.

Hugo’s Amazing Tape

#10. Test Your Settings Before Starting the Project

Take a scrap piece of fabric similar to what you’ll be using and run a few test stitches with your metallic thread. This will help you see how the thread interacts with the fabric of your choice. This will allow you to fine-tune the tension, stitch length, and other things to ensure everything runs smoothly. If the thread breaks or the stitch doesn’t look right, try modifying the tension or re-threading the needle. Testing on scraps ensures you don’t ruin your final project with unwanted surprises.

Sewing with Metallic Threads on a Serger/Overlock

I like using metallic threads on my serger, even though it requires using three cones at once. This setup hasn’t been an issue for me. I’ve found that New Brothread metallic threads work well with my serger.

Setting up the serger with metallic thread involves a few extra steps. I usually lower the tensions slightly to accommodate the metallic thread’s delicate nature. I also shorten the stitch length to increase the density of the threads, which enhances the shine and makes the metallic effect more pronounced.

Before working on the actual hem, I always test the settings on a scrap piece of fabric. 

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Metallic Threads

The nature of metallic threads is that they sometimes break even if you’ve done everything right and are using good quality threads. When this happens, it can be frustrating, but there are a few things you can check to troubleshoot the issue.

First, look at the tension settings on your machine. Metallic threads often require a lower tension setting to prevent breakage. Adjusting the tension can make a difference.

Next, inspect the needle. Ensure you are using the correct type of needle, such as a metallic, embroidery, or topstitch needle, which has a larger eye to reduce friction. Also, check if the needle is dull or damaged, as this can cause the thread to break.

Consider your sewing speed as well. Sewing too fast can put extra strain on metallic threads, leading to breakage. Try slowing down your sewing speed to see if that helps.

If you’ve checked the tension, needle, and sewing speed and everything seems fine, sometimes the best solution is to simply be patient and re-thread the machine. Re-threading can often resolve minor issues that aren’t immediately obvious.

Working with metallic threads can require a bit more patience and fine-tuning. 

Metallic Thread Ideas

Metallic threads offer a creative way to enhance our sewing projects. 

And here I am wearing the shorts. It’s just one of the ways to customize plain shorts and make them unique.

When working on accessories, metallic threads can add interesting elements to handbags, belts, and scarves. They provide a chance to make your handmade accessories unique and personalized.

In home decor, decorative stitches with metallic threads can be used to update items such as curtains, pillow covers, and tablecloths. Edging with metallic threads can give these pieces a fresh and personalized look. Even everyday items like fabric napkins and placemats can become more special with metallic thread accents.

Using metallic threads in your sewing projects allows for experimentation and personalization. 

To ensure your metallic thread projects last as long as possible, avoid exposing them to harsh chemicals or high temperatures. I never use a hot iron directly on metallic threads; instead, I use a pressing cloth.

Regular inspection of the threads for any signs of wear is also important. If you spot any potential issues, address them immediately to prevent further damage.

If you used metallic thread on a project, you can wash and dry it using the settings appropriate for the fabric. Just be sure to avoid bleach, as it can damage the threads.

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